sunnuntai 10. huhtikuuta 2011

1780's stays, 2008

Completely hand sewn with linen thread. The top layer is duchess silk satin, the next two layers are coarse linen and between them are the bones (round cane, 2,5 mm diameter). The bone casings for the horizontal bones are made of linen tape and the separate lining is fine linen. The pattern is based on the 1780's stays in Corsets and Crinolines by Norah Waugh.






Construction pictures.








6 kommenttia:

  1. The stays are so, so beautiful, and shape you so wonderfully! I'm also intrigued by your shift though: it fit so beautifully!

    VastaaPoista
  2. Thank you!

    I wanted a slimmer fitting chemise, so I cut the linen to the width of 25 inches and then pieced it in the usual manner in which the gores are cut from the top part of the main body and added to the bottom. I also didn't leave much ease to the sleeves, but the underarm gussets allow the usual amount of movement when the shift is worn.

    VastaaPoista
  3. OMG! First I only looked at your pictures and wonderd if the stays were sewn by hand, when I saw the close-up I thought, ah, ok, it's machinesewn - but than I read the text...
    I have rarely seen so extremely neat handstitches! I guess I have to search for a mousehole and hide inside ;)

    But now I have a question: is the linen you used extraordinary strong? Is the cane you used just that stuff you get in craft-shops? I'm a bit nervous about using cane, because in my fullyboned stays I used cane and the tip broke one time when I didn't wear my busk.
    Do you have such a tiny waist by nature, or can you really lace so well with this stays? I'm very curious I know, but I desperatly need a new pair of stays because I'm not so happpy with the ones I have, so I'm looking out for inspirations.
    Yours
    Cecilia

    VastaaPoista
  4. Thank you! :)

    The linen is very stiff and strong. it comes in quite narrow widths and I believe it's originally meant to be used as bench cover in sauna, but it works beautifully in stays.

    The cane is just the regular craft shop cane. The boning has survived well in my use, but never have to do any manual labour while I'm in stays so that helps. I'm actually planning on making new late century stays too, and I've been looking for sturdier boning materials. I like cane because it bends in all directions, but I worry about the possible breaking too sometimes. A little while ago I had an idea that cow horn could work. It's not a period boning material of course, but it's bendy in several directions too and durable and could be worked in to thin strips. And highland cattle has long horns so even the length wouldn't be an issue. I have even found a website that sells the highland cattle horns in flattened sheets. I plan on starting my experiments later this year, so we'll see soon how it works. An acquaintance of mine uses horn a lot for different projects and he was hopeful when I consulted him, but there is a great possibility that I will just be using cane again if it ends up not working.

    These stays reduce my waist circumference about two or three centimeters.

    VastaaPoista
  5. Thank you so much for your answer! I'm excited to see your experiments with horn.

    VastaaPoista
  6. I love this one so much. It's pretty, and simple at the same time. But I'm wondering how you've "finished" the tassettes (I don't know the english word for this) at the bottom. Usually this is were putting the bias is the most annoying, but there it looks like you haven't used bias on the outside, while we can see some in the inside. First I thought that you had folded the fashion fabric inside, but it's impossible to have so much fabric left between some tassettes. So I was wondering how it was done :D Because I personnaly prefer this type of corsets without bias :)

    Thanks a lot and keep up the good work, it's ALWAYS impressive!

    VastaaPoista