tiistai 1. marraskuuta 2011

1760's robe à la Française, 2011

This has never been my favorite style for 18th century, but it's a classic and I wanted to give it a try. It's made of cream silk taffeta and lined with linen. I used cream silk thread for sewing. It's worn over the previously introduced shift, stockings shoes and stays, linen pocket hoops with willow hoops and two linen petticoats. All hand sewn. The lace I used for the sleeve flounces and top edge of the stomacher is a beautiful cream colored antique hand made bobbin lace that unfortunately has small holes all over it. Luckily the holes don't show much even from close distances and looking at the delicate lace pattern makes me happy when I move my arms.

The winter is approaching and the weather is mainly rather cold and windy, but I persuaded my husband to take the camera and came outside with me to take the pictures. I had a hat, but it was impossible to wear it as the wind was blowing so hard. Most of the pictures ended up looking like the first one, but we managed to take quite a few decent ones to capture the dress and you are about to see probably too many of them.
















I was so glad I decided to line the mitts with leather. They were very warm.




The construction:

I started with the silk petticoat. I sewed together the skirt panels with running stitches and hemmed the bottom edge. Then I pleated the top of the skirt in a sloping shape to even the hem over pocket hoops. The top was then pleated and whipped in to the ties.



Then I made a linen lining and fitted it. At this point I left the shoulder seams unattached. 


Then I sewed together the robe panels.


I pleated the back to fit the lining.


I cut off the excess.


Then I cut an approximately shaped front bodice pieces, the robing side on selvedge. I ironed the robing folds and had my husband to help me fit and pin the pieces in place. I sewed the bodice pieces in to the lining from the outside using back stitching. I pleated and sewed the skirt to fit the bodice and had the husband mark the hem.




I drafted sleeves and sewed them partially on leaving the top part still free. In this following picture I'm trying on a first sleeve (that I didn't like).


The second sleeves were sewn on the same manner, the underside seam on the inside of the gown and the sleeve top from the outside. The robing covers the raw edge.

Then I made the stomacher and pinked the trimming.


I used whipped gathers for gathering and attached the trimming with widely spaced running stitches.

The dress closes by pinning the stomacher in to the stays and then pinning the gown to the stomacher under the robings.


31 kommenttia:

  1. Absolutely gorgeous! I can't believe you pinked all of that the old fashioned way. Really fabulous!

    VastaaPoista
  2. Absolutely beautiful, and it's always so nice to see how things close!

    VastaaPoista
  3. I already drooled over your gown at lj, but wasn't able to comment.
    The dress is sublime and you look absolutely stunning!
    Perfect garment, perfect complexion & look, perfect setting, all result in perfect pictures! LOVE IT!!!

    Sabine

    VastaaPoista
  4. A absolutely pretty gown worn by a absolutely pretty lady!

    Pinking all the trimming must have been horrible! I did this only once and I had aching muscles for days...

    VastaaPoista
  5. I love this gown, but then I love sacques in particular! You did such a beautiful job on it (hand-pinked trim!) and it looks so great on you!

    VastaaPoista
  6. Thank you all very much for your supportive comments!

    Cécile, I actually quite enjoyed the hammering. It was a nice change after spending way too many hours stooping over the dress while sewing. :)

    VastaaPoista
  7. Spectacular! And thank you for documenting your process - so interesting to see everything that goes into such a lovely ensemble.

    VastaaPoista
  8. As usual absolutely gorgous! You look very pretty in it too!

    VastaaPoista
  9. Exquisite! It may not be your favourite style, but you look perfect in it! And I love the touch of colour your mitts add!

    Thank you for showing how you closed it.

    VastaaPoista
  10. Wow this amazing! Love your blog!

    http://teffy-weffy.blogspot.com/

    (Follow I will follow back<3)

    VastaaPoista
  11. All of your work is fantastic! I am in awe. Where did you find the pinker? I have looked all over the US and cannot find them. Thank you so much for sharing your work with us.

    VastaaPoista
    Vastaukset
    1. Thank you!

      I found the pinker from http://wmboothdraper.com/ but they don't carry them at the moment.

      Poista
    2. OMG! Splendid dresses!, BEAUTIFUL, WONDERFUL, I LOVE IT!
      I LOVE ROCOCO

      Poista
  12. I come back and look at this dress so often. That and your stays and the black dress are so lovely, I can't get enough. Thanks for so much pleasure!

    VastaaPoista
    Vastaukset
    1. Thank you so much for the compliments! I really appreciate it. :)

      Poista
  13. I've just discovered this page via Pinterest. What can I say... ? WOW !!! Your technique and talent are just amazing !! I can't wait to see the rest of your blog !!

    VastaaPoista
  14. Beautiful! I'm making my own robe a la francaise, and I'd like to know what type of linen you used for the lining, and where you got it. Thanks!

    VastaaPoista
    Vastaukset
    1. Thank you! I used white plain medium weight line for the lining that I bought from my local fabric store.

      Poista
  15. Lovely dress! What pattern did you use for the pocket hoops?

    VastaaPoista
  16. In case anyone else is looking for a pinking tool, search for marenhus design on etsy. I was just able to custom order one from her in Germany as of march 2017.

    VastaaPoista