sunnuntai 2. kesäkuuta 2013

Natural form era corset

I have made a couple of corsets already this year, but I needed to make one more. I'm in a middle of a project that requires a light colored natural form era corset that can be worn comfortably even for longer periods of time. I have also often been disappointed in the flatness of my belly in my Victorian corsets and I wanted to try to finally get a rounder belly and more noticeable dip in at the waist when you look at the corsets side profile. Not something a modern era woman would prefer but an essential aspect in trying to get the era look just right. I also tried to get more overall roundness in it to avoid a too waspy waist and so make it suitable for any year between 1877 and early 1880's.

I dyed some white cotton coutil to a light cotton candy pink and made a single layer corset following period instructions as described in The Fashions of the Gilded Age 1. The boning is thin spiral steel and flossing is done with blue silk. The pattern started off as the 1880's corset from Waugh's Corsets and Crinolines few corsets ago, but has slowly transformed in to something quite different. 

Overall I'm pleased. It's the most comfortable corset I've made. It has the long lean "natural" lines suitable for natural form era gowns. The size is right and although I still don't have the perfect adorable victorian belly, I was able to get close by shaping the the third panel in a way that supports the goal better and bending the busk in shape. (I think I will try to bend it a bit more still to try to lift the roundness a little upwards.)











Construction:

I sewed the panels together leaving the seam allowances on the right side. Then I covered them with strips of coutil forming external cases for boning. I also added extra channels to the wider panels. I love this construction method. It's so simple and the result is very neat inside and out.




26 kommenttia:

  1. I see you like make corsets :) This is great, because all your corsets are wonderful! Your new corset is so delicate, so sweet... gorgeous! :)

    VastaaPoista
  2. Lovely! It's pristine looking inside and out. That method of creating boning channels is very clean looking and rather satisfying, I agree. It's so satisfying to know that you're wearing gorgeous underthings, even if other people can't see them!

    Best,
    Quinn

    VastaaPoista
  3. First I couldn't help noticing you're a bit tanned! At least it seems so. Or is it caused by the effect from the background? Tan wouldn't be surprising since it's been so sunny and hot these past two or three weeks. The chemise is so cute but I think I prefer the other corset because it's curvier than this one.

    VastaaPoista
    Vastaukset
    1. I think the healthy color on my skin is just from the lighting and hue adjustments I had to make to make details visible to the otherwise dark pictures. :)

      The shape in this is less dramatic, true, but I think this will look nicer under a sleek natural form gown. And I'm going to need some belly roundness to create this kind of perfect line for the point in the bodice:
      http://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/9/99/Lilly_Langtry%2C_1885.jpg

      Poista
  4. You are a master of corset making. I am truly amazed at your ability to get your body to form into the perfect shape, no matter what the era, through the use of your corsets. Very few people achieve that.

    VastaaPoista
    Vastaukset
    1. Thank you very much! The different and changing silhouettes is one of my favorite parts in this hobby, so I'm very glad to hear I've gotten some results in that department. :)

      Poista
  5. Beautiful! Have you tried a spoon busk instead of a straight busk to get a round belly? It was invented in 1879 so it should be about right

    VastaaPoista
    Vastaukset
    1. Thank you!
      I've tried spoon busks a couple of times. Most recently in January
      http://augustintytar.blogspot.fi/2013/01/1880s-corset-and-chemise-with-ball-gown.html
      but even after trying to bend it in to the pot belly shape it became quite straight again once the corset was laced.

      Poista
  6. Excellent corset! Btw I have a one qustion about chemise. How do You sew undergarments? Do You used this method http://brocadegoddess.files.wordpress.com/2012/05/img_1753compressed.jpg?

    VastaaPoista
    Vastaukset
    1. Thank you!
      And yes, that's mainly the way I sew my undergarments.

      Poista
  7. Oh, my! Not only a perfectly-built corset, but your own features are very much of that era. The shift underneath is also beautifully done. I would love to see you in a dress over that, to see how it hangs. I must admit, my focus in Victorian costume is on the anti-fashion, dress reform side, but such an excellent job of re-creation I find I must bow before! So nice to see it done right!

    VastaaPoista
    Vastaukset
    1. Thank you! It shouldn't take me long now to get the dress finished too.

      Lately I've been very fascinated with the dress reform clothing too. Especially the style that I believe took it's inspiration from the Russian peasant / field workers shirt. I'd love to give it a try someday.

      Poista
  8. OMG! Gorgeous. Just perfectly gorgeous. Your chemise is so pretty, too. Amazing work.

    VastaaPoista
  9. I'm sorry to be late to the comments, but did you cut the strips for boning channels on the straight of the grain, or on the bias? I'm interested in trying this myself.

    VastaaPoista
    Vastaukset
    1. I cut them straight of the grain. It's a fabulously easy way to construct a corset. :)

      Poista
  10. This is absolutely gorgeous. I have never seen such fine work!

    VastaaPoista
  11. I'm sorry to be late to the comments, but did you cut the strips for boning channels on the straight of the grain, or on the bias? I'm interested in trying this myself. plus size swimwear
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    VastaaPoista
  12. Nice post...I look forward to reading more, and getting a more active part in the talks here, whilst picking up some knowledge as well..

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    VastaaPoista
  13. What length busk did you use was is 12"? It looks longer.

    VastaaPoista
  14. Hello, I was wondering if it'd be possible to ask you for your pattern for this corset.... if not would you be able to direct me to a natural form corset pattern??

    VastaaPoista