tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-18515440298647237612024-03-13T16:41:59.293-07:00Before the AutomobileAugustintytärhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17505151461602176214noreply@blogger.comBlogger59125tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1851544029864723761.post-278082956617349062020-12-15T14:17:00.004-08:002020-12-15T15:00:41.878-08:00Victorian fencing costume, the concept<p><a href=" https://beforetheautomobile.com/2020/12/15/last-new-project-of-2020-late-victorian-fencing-outfit/" target="_blank"><span style="font-family: arial; font-size: medium;">Link to new blog</span></a><br /></p>Augustintytärhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17505151461602176214noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1851544029864723761.post-34493026951594032212020-12-15T14:16:00.002-08:002020-12-15T15:02:26.107-08:00New blogging home<p><span style="font-family: arial;">Instead of fixing this blog, I decided to start from beginning.</span></p><p><span style="font-family: arial;"><a href="https://beforetheautomobile.com/" target="_blank">Before the Automobile blog</a><br /></span></p><p><span style="font-family: arial;">I'll be adding the old posts from this blog to the new one. And I'll probably be linking the blog posts I make there over here. At least for now.</span></p>Augustintytärhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17505151461602176214noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1851544029864723761.post-26966211000014558982020-12-06T03:36:00.000-08:002020-12-06T03:36:06.970-08:00A dress diary?<p><span style="font-family: arial;"> I think I can still do this.</span></p><p></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiTnV58byF1yOKtk-p8MoNhWktRGmv-Ao-0GxxOC4SeoBMzo8KvYi_58_b3jw-4GC61X8F-fmaBIev1W10avbmvTY9wwj-_IhZGn3Ba9zi6bvAczK_5PCDJe-leF5J1bhFk2x1HQ_7Jg2k/s1242/IMG_3669.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="911" data-original-width="1242" height="469" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiTnV58byF1yOKtk-p8MoNhWktRGmv-Ao-0GxxOC4SeoBMzo8KvYi_58_b3jw-4GC61X8F-fmaBIev1W10avbmvTY9wwj-_IhZGn3Ba9zi6bvAczK_5PCDJe-leF5J1bhFk2x1HQ_7Jg2k/w640-h469/IMG_3669.jpg" width="640" /></a></div><br /><span style="font-family: arial;"><br /></span><p></p>Augustintytärhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17505151461602176214noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1851544029864723761.post-35766318940357233352018-10-18T06:37:00.002-07:002018-10-18T08:21:51.033-07:00The state of this blog<span style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">Photo hosting for most of the photos in this blog ended, so it's looking pretty empty right now. I don't know when I get around fixing those. It's also eating my motivation to update.</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">In the meantime, while I work on that, I've turned to Instagram for posting my sewing progress.</span><br />
<span style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;"><a href="https://www.instagram.com/before_the_automobile/">https://www.instagram.com/before_the_automobile/</a></span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">I also have a Facebook page that I update semiregularly.</span><br />
<span style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;"><a href="https://www.facebook.com/beforetheautomobile/">https://www.facebook.com/beforetheautomobile/</a></span>Augustintytärhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17505151461602176214noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1851544029864723761.post-5370666285685614932017-09-27T10:38:00.000-07:002017-09-28T12:29:01.726-07:00Mid 18th century riding habit<span style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">This is my take on the famous 1730-1750 riding habit jacket in Janet Arnold's Patterns of Fashion 1 and the equally famous <a href="http://collections.vam.ac.uk/item/O84125/riding-habit-jacket-unknown/">riding habit jacket in V&A museum</a>. It's in three pieces; a wool petticoat, a wool jacket with silk and linen linings and a silk waistcoat with a plain linen back. It's hand sewn with silk and linen treads. Underneath I'm wearing stays, a riding habit shirt, a small hip pad (shaped to emphasise hips more than the back) and linen petticoats. The jacket is trimmed with wide silver ribbon and narrow silver gimp trim added on top on both sides.</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">Insides / construction photos:</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">I backstitched the jacket outer layer together.</span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj2zSW-fsKvlh7dcv7ZEkPdP2G7KT2_FbkbaWtvoiHzuJKuL9v3avZCyGPENBaUP5pTFy0YTCaFctnbA0ITngn3p5hnEIAU9lcl4tjAjPkKzdBXEGOVxRyTnrdARNUZXFJUItLJjpS12MI/s1600/1750riding23.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="652" data-original-width="434" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj2zSW-fsKvlh7dcv7ZEkPdP2G7KT2_FbkbaWtvoiHzuJKuL9v3avZCyGPENBaUP5pTFy0YTCaFctnbA0ITngn3p5hnEIAU9lcl4tjAjPkKzdBXEGOVxRyTnrdARNUZXFJUItLJjpS12MI/s1600/1750riding23.jpg" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">Then I turned the seam allowances on one side and, using a spaced backstitch, stitched another line close to the seam. This topstitching seems to have been a common feature in 18th century riding habits. You can see it in the high resolution photos in the V&A jacket as well. </span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjX8l2IPW8wVK07JPSWzkm1IKa2mnz7UDzQtkoK2PJy2nldMNiEhBBKqxRZzFL0NvYhyml3tTcXqV32xd_OrgdhZ6borAU71IamFhmz_P6ql_2PhmTrHlohsCMapQh11K4V9LS3RiOjano/s1600/1750riding24.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="652" data-original-width="419" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjX8l2IPW8wVK07JPSWzkm1IKa2mnz7UDzQtkoK2PJy2nldMNiEhBBKqxRZzFL0NvYhyml3tTcXqV32xd_OrgdhZ6borAU71IamFhmz_P6ql_2PhmTrHlohsCMapQh11K4V9LS3RiOjano/s1600/1750riding24.jpg" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">Here's how it looks on the outside.</span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhgouiTljT2tB4neFboPfbCX3EOVjQ9QBsLnyFXUJc7me1NSpome-WRiPR_o5NhOEKq2HeqwsDTvQRKrl3BHtAejFPQfeVr3eaegKRXS02ZCgwbHtTM1v4hlbaXPaCQ22_B2gSSS3FuUA0/s1600/1750riding25.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="650" data-original-width="493" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhgouiTljT2tB4neFboPfbCX3EOVjQ9QBsLnyFXUJc7me1NSpome-WRiPR_o5NhOEKq2HeqwsDTvQRKrl3BHtAejFPQfeVr3eaegKRXS02ZCgwbHtTM1v4hlbaXPaCQ22_B2gSSS3FuUA0/s1600/1750riding25.jpg" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">I stiffened the jacket fronts with linen canvas pieces. Those, with additional help from the trim, keep the jacket fronts straight and well in shape.</span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgzE1YpSqjupkkh1HetykoAXN9x5YPWMy3upwe-gDOAabBFfGyxDrNJuWxAxt6SUhz89xOVeCW9pf27Emp1UbdwBx51J68o_1CaSrdli0iPVJ1WRznBdbmv9tw3GSG4G4OZY3W88SfM5ro/s1600/1750riding26.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="652" data-original-width="442" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgzE1YpSqjupkkh1HetykoAXN9x5YPWMy3upwe-gDOAabBFfGyxDrNJuWxAxt6SUhz89xOVeCW9pf27Emp1UbdwBx51J68o_1CaSrdli0iPVJ1WRznBdbmv9tw3GSG4G4OZY3W88SfM5ro/s1600/1750riding26.jpg" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">Jacket lining and silk front facings.</span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj0dN3PEAC3ZTUIKKlHNDgY22I4Mxv3M-yaU2rI4pf7hYuyUVAiHYq_aZsJkkXMYVVX9jISR8a7KV6qxZu8FQ4WGWo-bXJWfQStpyfF5BK9_CMTyMOTaPIq6nHCcJCJkPbj1qEeLncoQJw/s1600/1750riding27.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="652" data-original-width="472" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj0dN3PEAC3ZTUIKKlHNDgY22I4Mxv3M-yaU2rI4pf7hYuyUVAiHYq_aZsJkkXMYVVX9jISR8a7KV6qxZu8FQ4WGWo-bXJWfQStpyfF5BK9_CMTyMOTaPIq6nHCcJCJkPbj1qEeLncoQJw/s1600/1750riding27.jpg" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">I used an 18th century reproduction silk for the waistcoat. I had very little of it so I had to piece it in few places. I think I like it more with these small details.</span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhlICl1RFsFPHHw8fFaLovHQp1ZOwm61XIJEzJdsCA_YIn5kuvlttp0JaBK_L72nmqFaVRGeHr2cpGyCFNqoaqCD4r4cwF6RqBcZXOjMMqcsaVUwrFqkFa_VOJW9yffreBmDw7j0lWKSXA/s1600/1750riding28.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="652" data-original-width="489" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhlICl1RFsFPHHw8fFaLovHQp1ZOwm61XIJEzJdsCA_YIn5kuvlttp0JaBK_L72nmqFaVRGeHr2cpGyCFNqoaqCD4r4cwF6RqBcZXOjMMqcsaVUwrFqkFa_VOJW9yffreBmDw7j0lWKSXA/s1600/1750riding28.jpg" /></a></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjsegH5vKwNL8TC_HC1SUyO8mlwbe0DCorObQUKAovusgDuV_68R2Ex65_ksaV1uKI9f31hsnLZvluZuyIs41h_LCr6XQBCsAZbNiPxuEzj_-uFk30IjQhepm43whhAmytdyk75sQzqeBY/s1600/1750riding29.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="652" data-original-width="489" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjsegH5vKwNL8TC_HC1SUyO8mlwbe0DCorObQUKAovusgDuV_68R2Ex65_ksaV1uKI9f31hsnLZvluZuyIs41h_LCr6XQBCsAZbNiPxuEzj_-uFk30IjQhepm43whhAmytdyk75sQzqeBY/s1600/1750riding29.jpg" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">I joined the jacket and waistcoat skirt linings with the top layer with running stitch, smaller stitch showing on top.</span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgEFh5kb7ksbBJ4MIwhedOGMaJfigCvNtnYvvur-JGpRSAs7IWhHwxF8qr_0EUDvoKsdsKpiJV5Lk9QB1VduIUAruB4pIJFWh-uZmbp5Ozq0i8bvU8kBH_4loV6H1UQjFu_eeitvc6aeus/s1600/1750riding30.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="652" data-original-width="500" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgEFh5kb7ksbBJ4MIwhedOGMaJfigCvNtnYvvur-JGpRSAs7IWhHwxF8qr_0EUDvoKsdsKpiJV5Lk9QB1VduIUAruB4pIJFWh-uZmbp5Ozq0i8bvU8kBH_4loV6H1UQjFu_eeitvc6aeus/s1600/1750riding30.jpg" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">I top stitched the bust darts too on both, the jacket and the waistcoat.</span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEguXe6HJyFC7eIBjyIFVautXjodUbn8kChsMUBXtUQV3xYTRgWd8PXnKicBar8LiwtJHHllv3FWUJO_fm1PovM-ikpecKhXTHgvmHmdTKuXL4sjeHaZgPW1QLX27gOTBM5_qKs0K3ekPdc/s1600/1750riding31.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="652" data-original-width="489" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEguXe6HJyFC7eIBjyIFVautXjodUbn8kChsMUBXtUQV3xYTRgWd8PXnKicBar8LiwtJHHllv3FWUJO_fm1PovM-ikpecKhXTHgvmHmdTKuXL4sjeHaZgPW1QLX27gOTBM5_qKs0K3ekPdc/s1600/1750riding31.jpg" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">Waistcoat has lacing down the back.</span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgGNitEvuGUz4M7sFt8n-HdARZBnO21u-eKbKJNwT8n3Ay98yzS7z3f9M3c9loZhSgDUkDI8UruN96mP8QHZI_rks2aj0ZVyclj37dXGH9G5NXU_I_ESmm8x4pMZsGItJEf_5Wyqqsi4_Q/s1600/1750riding32.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="652" data-original-width="489" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgGNitEvuGUz4M7sFt8n-HdARZBnO21u-eKbKJNwT8n3Ay98yzS7z3f9M3c9loZhSgDUkDI8UruN96mP8QHZI_rks2aj0ZVyclj37dXGH9G5NXU_I_ESmm8x4pMZsGItJEf_5Wyqqsi4_Q/s1600/1750riding32.jpg" /></a></div>
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Augustintytärhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17505151461602176214noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1851544029864723761.post-2867124075817708152017-04-09T10:54:00.000-07:002017-04-09T10:54:04.749-07:00Hand painted robe à la Française, late 1750's to early 1770's<span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Late last year I had the honor of receiving an invitation to a 1757 reenactment in March 2017 in Zeilitzheim. I knew I wanted a new saque for the occasion as I had worn my cream gown so many times already. I also knew I didn't want another solid color gown. Appropriate silk brocade is difficult to find. And if you do, it always costs a fortune. While looking for inspiration, <a href="http://collections.vam.ac.uk/item/O98554/sack-back-gown-unknown/">this gown</a> gave me the idea to paint some silk to make a colourful gown while staying on budget.</span><div>
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<span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">The gown is made of duchess silk satin painted with Deka silk paints. It has a linen lining and the self fabric trim is edged with looped passementerie trim. It's completely hand sewn with linen and silk thread.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">It's worn over shift, stays, pocket hoops and two linen petticoats. For the photos I styled it to fit early 1770's style.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">I wasn't able to finish the gown before I left to Germany but I managed to make the stomacher and few other finishing touches while I was there and was able to wear it as planned on Saturday evening. There was only a very small mirror on our room, and the first time I was wearing the gown I hadn't even seen it on myself. That was a strange feeling. But, despite pinning it on a little hastily leaving some wrinkles, it turned out ok.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">We wanted to concentrate on enjoying the experience rather than on taking photos, but I have these two as proof. I think the fabric and colors worked well in candlelight.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Construction:</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">The gown was draped over a fitted lining with the help of my husband. I started by draping the back, then back skirts, bodice fronts, front skirts and then sleeves.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">I left sleeve heads unneatened under robings.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Painting:</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">I made six different floral stencils that I rotated as the work progressed. I outlined everything first and then painted the colors.</span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh7G6r6edirYuJg5e1sfGmQPZE2MPtRW8PKhgf9AAKaHDEB-iIPS4xyBJB_jNhYLuQwC27UjTKqbjMCzsNPrkIp1pYTSTXy2xmGQpLhUTFS7BLnRReh2Zzb5Zwt7JreYHaB_ODY11fRO90/s1600/maalattu50.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh7G6r6edirYuJg5e1sfGmQPZE2MPtRW8PKhgf9AAKaHDEB-iIPS4xyBJB_jNhYLuQwC27UjTKqbjMCzsNPrkIp1pYTSTXy2xmGQpLhUTFS7BLnRReh2Zzb5Zwt7JreYHaB_ODY11fRO90/s1600/maalattu50.jpg" /></a></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjbzgueuXHfHLPhNPxk852gAzNdjDYGXvu52UBgNrn0DCtBMw8lS_rBxJb4vpoU94G8Bhk_6TgmoZa5Udwdwa2zIYnuYMreN-Cr5_roDPpuhT7Ev6gAtxURLPxFvw19MKi3nlFk_9_ek28/s1600/maalattu52.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjbzgueuXHfHLPhNPxk852gAzNdjDYGXvu52UBgNrn0DCtBMw8lS_rBxJb4vpoU94G8Bhk_6TgmoZa5Udwdwa2zIYnuYMreN-Cr5_roDPpuhT7Ev6gAtxURLPxFvw19MKi3nlFk_9_ek28/s1600/maalattu52.jpg" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">The flowers are based on three different painted 18th century gowns but my main inspiration was the <a href="http://collections.vam.ac.uk/item/O98554/sack-back-gown-unknown/">gown in V&A museum</a>.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">This is a close up of the V&A gown:</span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiKlWKMTheV6k7S7CJ83lZkoZ8CtP52-aQPG9zzsPJ3xWrhJ5CZ8A0ZvS4kfqC0d15utz66onplnU5oJPmxmw-eCo7zvvfT6k-qrBQ2bSGUlJjLdV5bGWELHVOv-bP5LqDui3LJEpgDJWo/s1600/maalattu58.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiKlWKMTheV6k7S7CJ83lZkoZ8CtP52-aQPG9zzsPJ3xWrhJ5CZ8A0ZvS4kfqC0d15utz66onplnU5oJPmxmw-eCo7zvvfT6k-qrBQ2bSGUlJjLdV5bGWELHVOv-bP5LqDui3LJEpgDJWo/s1600/maalattu58.jpg" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">And these are some of my versions</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">I noticed one particularly ugly flower in there so I had to have it in my dress too.</span></div>
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Augustintytärhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17505151461602176214noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1851544029864723761.post-27389432569556223302017-03-28T10:53:00.003-07:002017-03-28T11:10:45.208-07:00c. 1760 Jesuit<span style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">This was more of an update type of project than a new gown. I managed to find more of the same silk taffeta that I used for my <a href="http://augustintytar.blogspot.fi/2011/11/1760s-robe-la-francaise.html">robe à la Française</a> in 2011 so I just made a hooded waistcoat and sleeve extensions to make it double as an 18th century Jesuit gown.</span><br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhbQ00q6FnL0XXmJdZfL2RaVAxa7WYVGqdHPxU4slkuYa44zM_gyQCoENLI8qfq0nJg1tZ4D64qAAqs3b4oq9dJYyFLA36xEYprHBOS2of4IfZdFK-SgGjxeraGXaCk_D0vS8bvyJWt0Pg/s1600/jesuit2.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhbQ00q6FnL0XXmJdZfL2RaVAxa7WYVGqdHPxU4slkuYa44zM_gyQCoENLI8qfq0nJg1tZ4D64qAAqs3b4oq9dJYyFLA36xEYprHBOS2of4IfZdFK-SgGjxeraGXaCk_D0vS8bvyJWt0Pg/s1600/jesuit2.jpg" /></a></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEifHe5Q2bPgRsm0foVU2Y_dOxUIwgjL712FtoHyliegufqU2SnBPr58tu1_ST6jZBkS2lAyizchrLa2lWQYM3FSqBJ5Xq9MYBOxNYAVp8sAS4hO_NEdlwnIINmP3zQ6zfpJ_DOVW6k_P_g/s1600/jesuit3.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEifHe5Q2bPgRsm0foVU2Y_dOxUIwgjL712FtoHyliegufqU2SnBPr58tu1_ST6jZBkS2lAyizchrLa2lWQYM3FSqBJ5Xq9MYBOxNYAVp8sAS4hO_NEdlwnIINmP3zQ6zfpJ_DOVW6k_P_g/s1600/jesuit3.jpg" /></a></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjy2AE9nhjWpFy6COJrmq88tJwdpYrKpdGIbf88T80OQzTad7k2vXk1g-KBLm_U4tMOBBndjTKm_Hshky-I-eXDAr1PSQjNXMcx2og4JMRURRfIBCLqg_H_nXfiRGyvKMibrBIObIimIA4/s1600/jesuit14.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-align: center;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjy2AE9nhjWpFy6COJrmq88tJwdpYrKpdGIbf88T80OQzTad7k2vXk1g-KBLm_U4tMOBBndjTKm_Hshky-I-eXDAr1PSQjNXMcx2og4JMRURRfIBCLqg_H_nXfiRGyvKMibrBIObIimIA4/s1600/jesuit14.jpg" /></a></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiYr4DnFa7qhqMkpPMkiSuur4uq22rWfY8QRc2ySDpdPr7E10fryXP7ZRWHZWzXV_ORwRJ-V7l0jjJ3f7Z-UwC79BqotR0ippmJ-w13Y9nU_cio6DHhQCdWqa_-j3vP4ChYvYqegx-Nzu0/s1600/jesuit10.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiYr4DnFa7qhqMkpPMkiSuur4uq22rWfY8QRc2ySDpdPr7E10fryXP7ZRWHZWzXV_ORwRJ-V7l0jjJ3f7Z-UwC79BqotR0ippmJ-w13Y9nU_cio6DHhQCdWqa_-j3vP4ChYvYqegx-Nzu0/s1600/jesuit10.jpg" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">How it works:</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">I pinned the sleeve extensions on under sleeve ruffles.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">The gown is pinned in to the waistcoat under the robings like it would be in to a stomacher.</span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiY64ncPRyEtzeiF2VDmLKt5oQsQkhm4FyTW4DOk_WjtLhqSa9VyoWVJDy9I8EKArRo4_t6eRSEOIMen_2iSIlydMZz77f6tVAHaDqJEQyhIbbnYxO1j89fNhArDpUC6BycJqC020un-oo/s1600/jesuit23.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiY64ncPRyEtzeiF2VDmLKt5oQsQkhm4FyTW4DOk_WjtLhqSa9VyoWVJDy9I8EKArRo4_t6eRSEOIMen_2iSIlydMZz77f6tVAHaDqJEQyhIbbnYxO1j89fNhArDpUC6BycJqC020un-oo/s1600/jesuit23.jpg" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">Details:</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">Back of the waistcoat is plain linen, back seam is flat felled.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">Visible part of back is covered with silk, this is the underside.</span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhQCDHaW9Ddc2eJvdWvQyLzC6IORd8Vg1X4_NX2sPDVAMv6D8keBdHyfL18FWdtWd2TKTLQfswE9FMg0CP_DQtLb4bdZP78X-04fydJdqkJ2hLD1B6QUgMudzPs33A-67S7GiQ_QHUCTLQ/s1600/jesuit25.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhQCDHaW9Ddc2eJvdWvQyLzC6IORd8Vg1X4_NX2sPDVAMv6D8keBdHyfL18FWdtWd2TKTLQfswE9FMg0CP_DQtLb4bdZP78X-04fydJdqkJ2hLD1B6QUgMudzPs33A-67S7GiQ_QHUCTLQ/s1600/jesuit25.jpg" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">Fronts and hood are two layers of silk, cream and white, cream silk facing.</span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg_k_HTG4hN2jYQ2Acv1IF2omDPyDqNlrGuKmmpOlkUsmcCoUGN8K8VXKfNw4YiiuqJbcoaEj25K9n5ni94aTbbR2dphwyBcOaer3OzyzwS0Q_7PrO6tuhbQBUNAEjZE5WJZilAwZNyr3M/s1600/jesuit26.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg_k_HTG4hN2jYQ2Acv1IF2omDPyDqNlrGuKmmpOlkUsmcCoUGN8K8VXKfNw4YiiuqJbcoaEj25K9n5ni94aTbbR2dphwyBcOaer3OzyzwS0Q_7PrO6tuhbQBUNAEjZE5WJZilAwZNyr3M/s1600/jesuit26.jpg" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">Shoulder seam</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">Bust dart</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">Sleeve extensions</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;"><br /></span>Augustintytärhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17505151461602176214noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1851544029864723761.post-10406443438851987132017-01-01T14:21:00.000-08:002018-10-18T04:40:13.068-07:001880's formal / court presentation gown<span style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">In 2015 I had less than a week to make a gown for the Saturday night gala, so it had to be something simple, fast and straight forward. I decided to make a Victorian court presentation gown after one of Worth's gowns. Truly Victorian had just come up with <a href="https://www.trulyvictorian.net/1887-imperial-skir.html">a perfect skirt pattern</a> that I was happy to use to save time on guess work. I only lengthened the train a little. The bodice pattern is my own.</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">It's made of duchess silk satin. The skirt and train are faced and the bodice lined with glazed cotton. The trim is silk tulle that was originally soft but was starched stiff, pleated and sequinned. It's worn over a lobster style bustle and two petticoats.</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;"><span style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">I found</span> <a href="http://madamemodiste.blogspot.com/">Kat's</a> research for presentation accessories very helpful.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">The inspiration</span></div>
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Augustintytärhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17505151461602176214noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1851544029864723761.post-32052908364556442122017-01-01T12:13:00.001-08:002018-10-18T04:39:47.610-07:00Late Victorian corset<span style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">Single layer cotton coutil corset with pink flossing. Gusseted corset with felled seams. Bone casings are formed with a tape sewn on the underside of the corset. It's boned with synthetic whalebone. </span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">This time I was much happier with the results. Bust is rounded and low and the busk curves nicely on the side profile. Waist is defined but not too waspy.</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;"><br /></span>Augustintytärhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17505151461602176214noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1851544029864723761.post-5140824496086862192017-01-01T09:15:00.001-08:002018-10-18T04:39:32.835-07:001880's corset<span style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">Single layer cotton coutil corset with pink flossing. It's sewn with seam allowances on the right side, covered with strips forming the boning channels. Boned with spiral steel.</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">I made this corset in spring 2015 but I wasn't happy with the shape. Bust is too tight and not rounded enough so it makes the overall shape all wrong. I thought I'd document regardless.</span></div>
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Augustintytärhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17505151461602176214noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1851544029864723761.post-76680552535271411812016-08-18T14:53:00.000-07:002018-10-18T04:39:23.944-07:00Inspired by Lillie Langtry<span style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">The bodice in one of the Toulmouche paintings I used as an inspiration to make my natural form ball gown looked very similar to one Lillie Langtry was photographed wearing in mid 1880's. She looked so stunning in those photos that I wanted to try to replicate that with my gown when I was figuring out the details on how to trim the bodice.</span><br />
<span style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;"><br /></span><span style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">And, as she was the obvious inspiration to my dress, I always wanted to try to pose in that dress like she did. I could never look as perfect as she did. This is as close as I could get. But it was a fun experiment.</span><br />
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Augustintytärhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17505151461602176214noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1851544029864723761.post-39773664596605244912016-07-26T15:49:00.000-07:002018-10-18T04:34:05.960-07:00Edwardian evening gown<span style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">It's made of duchess silk satin. Bodice is lined with cotton and covered with cotton bobbinet. All bodice seams are boned. Skirt is faced with silk satin and it has two cotton bobbinnet over layers. White tulle layer is covered with c. 7000 silver sequins, individually attached. Black tulle has a Greek key appliqué that I cut out of silk velvet and hand stitched in place. Rows of silver and gunmetal sequins border the tulle layers. I also added paper flowers as a decoration.</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">Straight seams are machine sewn, the rest is hand sewn. Skirt pattern is based on the 1901-1902 reception gown in Patterns of Fashion. Bodice is patterned by myself.</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">It's worn over a corset that I made from an Atelier Sylphe pattern that was drawn after an original Edwardian corset. Truly a great pattern. I'm also wearing one cotton petticoat.</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">Testing an S-curve pose.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">Sequin project.</span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgM6y5JiY67TfMpSzjYNs_58r5PPqweSjyrm6t34dqY9OmZ87HqYJ6nMITGPvzV_MlouIdE09Ndr7qPmZo2iBDsz1i8OemsuXZYUpZsPMPLe85dESMbgRPDvUeFQBXtnQHw1TPj9_nHdSY/s1600/ede18.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgM6y5JiY67TfMpSzjYNs_58r5PPqweSjyrm6t34dqY9OmZ87HqYJ6nMITGPvzV_MlouIdE09Ndr7qPmZo2iBDsz1i8OemsuXZYUpZsPMPLe85dESMbgRPDvUeFQBXtnQHw1TPj9_nHdSY/s1600/ede18.jpg" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">I used the same technique than in this original Edwardian dress.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;"><a href="http://attiresmind.blogspot.fi/2015/07/one-shot-worth-dress-1906.html" target="_blank">Source</a></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;"><br /></span>Augustintytärhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17505151461602176214noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1851544029864723761.post-44330021244367048712014-09-23T11:33:00.000-07:002018-10-18T04:33:42.395-07:00Costume College dress rehearsal part IV, the 1874 day dress<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">The last outfit change of the day was to check the overall fit and the suitability of the new bustle also with my <a href="http://augustintytar.blogspot.fi/2012/12/1874-day-dress-after-dress-in-v.html">other early bustle dress</a>. I was consciously pushing the boundaries by dressing my hair in a traditionally girly style. It was inspired by <a href="http://www.festiveattyre.com/">Jen's</a> 1870 Peterson's scan <a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/festiveattyre/7962121920/in/set-72157631479892922">"new styles for dressing the hair"</a></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;"> which I've always loved. I also might have stuck the bonnet a little too far on the back. But perhaps the ladies in period had such mishaps too occasionally. It's hard to judge the angle looking at yourself from the front while getting dressed. </span><br />
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Augustintytärhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17505151461602176214noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1851544029864723761.post-70201962609457845672014-09-20T23:09:00.001-07:002018-10-18T04:33:25.467-07:00Costume College dress rehearsal part III, 1871 dress, ball gown version<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">I also tried on the <a href="http://augustintytar.blogspot.fi/2011/04/1871-dress-evening-version-2010.html">ball gown bodice</a> of <a href="http://augustintytar.blogspot.fi/2011/04/1871-dress-aka-tissot-dress-2010.html">the Tissot dress</a>. I hadn't yet decided which one to wear at the event so I wanted to see which one I'd like better. And also most of the photos of me wearing it when it was first finished didn't come out well so I took advantage of the opportunity.</span><br />
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Augustintytärhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17505151461602176214noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1851544029864723761.post-80167725168937853002014-09-20T01:04:00.000-07:002018-10-18T04:33:13.953-07:00Costume College dress rehearsal part II, the Tissot inspired 1871 dress<span style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">This <a href="http://augustintytar.blogspot.fi/2011/04/1871-dress-aka-tissot-dress-2010.html">second dress</a> I hadn't tried on since 2011 and had already lost the original bustle that I wore with it, so I had to see if it still fit ok and looked good over my new bustle. I also wanted to practice the hairstyle so I did a quick dress change and took some photos.</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;"><br /></span>Augustintytärhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17505151461602176214noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1851544029864723761.post-55498223469216102402014-09-19T07:39:00.000-07:002018-10-18T04:32:57.632-07:00Costume College dress rehearsal part I, 1770's robe à la Polonaise à coqueluchon<span style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;"><a href="http://augustintytar.blogspot.fi/2014/01/late-1770s-robe-la-polonaise-coqueluchon.html">This dress</a> was one of the seven I took with me to Costume College this year. I hadn't had a proper chance to try out all the different ways to drape the back having only worn it a couple of minutes in freezing cold when it was finished, so I wanted to try it on before I packing. And while I was at it, I did a simple hairstyle to go with it and took a couple of photos that I thought I'd share.</span><br />
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Augustintytärhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17505151461602176214noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1851544029864723761.post-85884511868416131142014-07-25T16:59:00.002-07:002018-10-18T04:29:26.223-07:001740's stays and a mid 18th century shift<span style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">The stays are made from two layers of linen canvas, reproduction 18th century silk brocade / droguet as the top layer and linen lining. They are bound with silk grosgrain (the narrower grosgrain over seams is rayon) and hand sewn with linen thread. They are boned with reed.</span><br />
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">They are based on the c. 1740 stays in Norah Waugh's Corsets and crinolines with only the side back seams taken in a little at the waist to fit my shape better.</span><br />
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">I constructed them my usual way. After outlining the pieces, I quilted the boning channels.</span></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">I inserted the boning, secured the edges and whip stitched the seam allowances down. Then I made the lacing holes.</span></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">Then I whipped the seams together, made horizontal boning cases from linen tape in the stomacher and then bound the stays.</span></div>
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Augustintytärhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17505151461602176214noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1851544029864723761.post-43904355215033765452014-03-22T16:04:00.000-07:002018-10-18T03:54:12.951-07:001809 riding habit in the style of Königin Luise von Preußen<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">This riding habit was heavily influenced by the <a href="http://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/File:K%C3%B6nigin_Luise_(Ternite).jpg">two</a> <a href="http://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/File:Wilhelm_Ternite_-_Koenigin_Luise.jpg">portraits</a> Wilhelm Ternite painted of Queen Louise of Prussia in 1808-1810. I followed the portraits closely but once again didn't set out to do an exact copy. The original is in a museum and, having seen photos of it, I knew it was closer in color to the second of those portraits but I loved the way it looked in the darker portrait so I chose an almost navy blue wool. It's lined with white silk taffeta and trimmed in Hussar fashion with gold military lace, vintage buttons and two different widths of russia braid. Interlining consists of linen canvas and horse hair. Every stitch is hand sewn with linen and silk threads. </span><br />
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">I'm wearing it over my <a href="http://augustintytar.blogspot.fi/2014/03/shift-and-stays-for-1810.html">shift and stays</a>, a chemisette and a high waisted petticoat. Accessories include <a href="http://augustintytar.blogspot.fi/2012/06/18th-century-riding-habit-gloves-2012.html">my riding gloves</a> and a ready made wool top hat I trimmed with a tussle I made from ostrich feathers. Shoes and stockings (not visible) are purchased.</span><br />
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">With only the spencer removed. The wool skirt has shoulder straps to keep it in place.</span></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">The cotton petticoat.</span></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">The skirt is patterned after the 1795-1810 riding habit skirt in Janet Arnold's Patterns of Fashion but instead of leaving it long all the way round, I cut the hem floor length in front and left a little train. That seemed to be common with riding habits in fashion plates from around 1810.</span></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">I drafted the pattern for the spencer using the portrait and photos of museum spencers as guide. </span></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif; font-size: x-small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="line-height: 18px;">Friedrich Wilhelm Ternite, Königin Luise, 1808/09</span></span></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">I sewed the spencer and it's lining together separately. I pad stitched the fronts and collar with two layers of linen canvas with horsehair interlining in between. I needed it to be extra stiff to hold the braiding and the buttons. I braided the spencer before joining it with the lining.</span></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">The spencer ready for the lining.</span></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">The lining in place.</span></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">I'm very grateful to <a href="http://kleidungum1800.blogspot.de/">Sabine</a> for sharing all details from her <a href="http://kleidungum1800.blogspot.de/search/label/1806%20Riding%20Habit%20K%C3%B6nigin%20Luise">1806 Paradeuniformkleid Königin Luise -project</a> because otherwise I would have most likely assumed she would have worn a high collar shirt underneath her spencer. Following <a href="http://kleidungum1800.blogspot.de/2012/08/luises-chemisette.html">her example</a> I was able to do a quick and simple version of my own.</span></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">There is a base of sturdier cotton.</span></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">Which I covered with gathered a layer of sheer cotton.</span></div>
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Augustintytärhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17505151461602176214noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1851544029864723761.post-12633131456863567382014-03-20T11:13:00.003-07:002018-10-18T03:53:33.100-07:00Shift and stays for 1810<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">The stays are hand sewn from cotton twill and cotton sateen with linen thread. They are bound with cotton tape and have a wooden busk and spiral steel center back bones. They are made using J.S. Bernhardt's Schnürleib Fig.C -diagram in <a href="http://kleidungum1800.blogspot.fi/">Sabine's</a> excellent <a href="http://kleidungum1800.blogspot.de/2013/05/short-stays-studies-schnurleib-studien.html">'Short Stays' Studies</a>.</span><br />
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">The shift is made from handkerchief weight linen and hand sewn with linen thread.</span><br />
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">I had made the shift in 2009 during my (then) short lived desire to make a regency outfit. I had made the sleeves accidentally too tight and I had to figure out a quick fix to that problem. My solution was slashing open the underarm gusset and inserting a gore.</span></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">The neckline has a drawstring to adjust the fit.</span></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">Busk is held in place by lacing it through two eyelets on the bottom of the busk pocket.</span></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">Making these stays wasn't my brightest moment in this hobby. I was under a tight schedule and because the pattern is so simple, I thought I could get away with just measuring everything carefully to determine the right size for the gores. I took 2 cm off of both sides at the CF edge (4 cm in total) to prevent it being too loose and trusting my math, begun sewing it together. The finished stays fit in their own way but the shape was completely wrong for 1810.</span></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">I tried to fix it by adding two more gussets on both sides of the original bust gussets and changing the shape of them all to more U-shaped. Then I was able to wear it higher and tighten the shoulder straps more to keep it there. Because of that, the waist of the stays doesn't hit my natural waist anymore meaning the hip gores are now cut too high. And I'm not perfectly happy with the shape of the neckline now either. But they do provide the necessary support and worked well under my new riding habit. So even if they are not as pretty as they could have been, they are perfectly functional and that's the main thing.</span></div>
Augustintytärhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17505151461602176214noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1851544029864723761.post-33498108652214807852014-03-19T07:23:00.002-07:002018-10-18T03:53:06.755-07:00C. 1800 robe à l'Athénienne<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">Although neoclassical styles were a norm during the Directory and Consulate eras, the dresses that took the classical ideal to the extreme was a fashion phenomena among only very few privileged French ladies. As I'm not tied to any re-enactment group or persona, I felt curious about experimenting with that extreme. To those not very familiar with the high waisted era, I'd like to emphasize that this would not be a suitable outfit for most historic events, like a Jane Austen Ball for example. And if you are not sure about the dress code, I would strongly recommend wearing a shift, stays, stockings and shoes with the rest of your outfit. But if you are not bound by any dress code, this style will make up as a most delightfully comfortable little white dress. </span><br />
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">The dress is made of thin cotton muslin. The lining is made of linen and it's completely hand sewn with linen thread. I'm wearing it over only a high waisted cotton lawn petticoat with shoulder straps, also hand sewn with linen. It's accessorized with greek style leather sandals and a shawl with painted borders at both ends. I achieved the length by joining two shawls like Jen did in her <a href="http://www.festiveattyre.com/2013/10/regency-shawl-hacks.html">regency shawl post</a>.</span><br />
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">The dress without the shawl.</span></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">Construction:</span></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">I looked through a bunch of portraits of ladies dressed in the Merveilleuse style when I was deciding the design. Eventually <a href="http://www.nga.gov/content/ngaweb/Collection/art-object-page.46593.html">this portrait</a> became the main inspiration for the bodice and sleeves:</span></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;"><br />And <a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Juliette_R%C3%A9camier">Juliette Récamier</a> the inspiration for a slimmer skirt.</span></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">For patterning, I used the c. 1798-1805 morning dress in Patterns of Fashion as main source. I sewed the bodice lining together first and then mounted corresponding cotton pieces on top and back stitched them down from the right side.</span></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">The skirts seams were sewn together leaving them open from the top to allow the bib front to fall open. The center back is cartridge pleated and then the skirts whip stitched to the bodice and to a waist tape in front. </span></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">Then I made the v-neck front piece and attached it to the waist tape as well. The bodice closes with hooks and eyes and then the bib front is pinned to the shoulder straps after the waist tape ends are tied together in front.</span></div>
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Augustintytärhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17505151461602176214noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1851544029864723761.post-54515418801297712972014-02-15T02:18:00.001-08:002018-10-18T03:52:37.782-07:002nd Annual Grand Oscarian Ball, 2014<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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<span style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">This event has quickly become my favorite ball of the year. There's something so magical in waltzing to music played by a live orchestra. And the venue we have had the pleasure to go to these two times is stunning. </span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">When I got the word that the ball is being held again this year, I didn't hesitate for a moment before signing up. Fortunately I had already made </span><a href="http://augustintytar.blogspot.fi/2013/07/natural-form-ball-gown-toulmouche.html"><span style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">a suitable dress</span></a><span style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;"> last year. Building a wardrobe I sorely need for regency and 1740's events later this spring is keeping me very busy. Too busy to have been able to fit in another dress project. To my embarrassment it is pale pink and simple, just like the one I wore to the first ball a year earlier. But I wish for a 3rd annual ball and, if my wish is granted, I'm determined to finally have a grand and colorful bustle dress. </span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">Upon arrival we were greeted by Russian folk singers in traditional dress to set the atmosphere. </span><a href="http://menuettakademien.se/"><span style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">Menuett Akademien</span></a><span style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;"> had chosen a Russian theme for this year and, as a fan of Tolstoy's Anna Karenina, I loved it. We were also announced by name upon entering the ball room which I thought was delightful. I was traveling with my friends Riikka and Ida again this year and once we got settled we set out to fill our dance cards for the evening. The amount of gorgeous dresses blew me away. It was evident that everyone had given their best effort to dress up for the occasion. There were also a few uniforms and some men had outdone themselves and had grown impressive moustaches. Most delightful! </span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">To preserve the historical atmosphere, general photographing is restricted during the ball, but the amazing </span><a href="http://anno1776.blogspot.fi/"><span style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">Caroline</span></a><span style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;"> got a few photos us Finns waltzing and generously gave me the permission to post them here.</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">Big thanks to Menuett Akademien for making this happen again. </span><span style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">And also thanks to the men who braved the dance floor with me, Ragnar, Per, Thomas, Johan and Olof! And Ida and Riikka for keeping me company the whole day and helping me to get dressed.</span>Augustintytärhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17505151461602176214noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1851544029864723761.post-10379799324625307252014-01-18T15:26:00.001-08:002018-10-18T03:52:09.113-07:00Late 1770's robe à la Polonaise à coqueluchon<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">Judging from the amount of hooded robes à la Polonaise you can see in portraits and fashion plates they were quite popular in their time. I think it's a cute style, kind of a crossover between a dress and an overgarment, so I wanted to give it a try. It's made of striped silk taffeta with linen and silk lining and </span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">trimmed with silk gauze</span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">. It's hand sewn with linen thread. It closes with hooks and eyes. I'm wearing it over <a href="http://augustintytar.blogspot.fi/2012/05/late-18th-century-shift-2012.html">a shift</a>, <a href="http://augustintytar.blogspot.fi/2012/05/1780s-stays-2012.html">stays</a>, a false rump, two linen petticoats, <a href="http://augustintytar.blogspot.fi/2011/09/late-18th-century-stockings-2011.html">silk stockings</a>, <a href="http://augustintytar.blogspot.fi/2013/12/1780s-shoes.html">silk shoes</a> and <a href="http://augustintytar.blogspot.fi/2013/12/1770s-1780s-accessories.html">accessories</a>, all hand sewn by me.</span><br />
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">I was mainly inspired by these three drawings. </span></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif; font-size: x-small;">Gallerie des Modes, 1778</span></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: #333333; line-height: 18px;">A lot of the basic construction I owe to the the <a href="http://demodecouture.com/polonaise/">research Kendra and Brooke have made</a> over the past years. I drafter the pattern myself using my riding habit and late 18th century jacket patterns as a guide.</span></span></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">I set the sleeves the same way I usually do. All four fabric layers together under arm and sleeve head sandwiched between shoulder strap an it's lining.</span></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">To loop up the skirt, the tapes running over side back seams continue unstitched from where the seam ends to be tied up on the inside.</span></div>
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Augustintytärhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17505151461602176214noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1851544029864723761.post-69261355848953423012013-12-08T05:28:00.000-08:002018-10-18T03:51:31.443-07:001770's -1780's accessories<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">My most recent project, robe à la Polonaise à coqueluchon, is a day dress and I wanted to accessorize it accordingly. I needed a new hat, elbow length gloves and I also wanted equipage. I couldn't justify purchasing any of those gorgeous reproduction equipage that are available. Facing the option of making my own, I was inspired by the mismatched pearly equipage that Marie Antoinette is carrying in the <a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/File:Adolf_Ulrik_Wertm%C3%BCller_-_Queen_Marie_Antoinette_of_France_and_two_of_her_Children_Walking_in_The_Park_of_Trianon_-_Google_Art_Project.jpg">1785 Wertmüller portrait</a>.</span><br />
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">Mine are just quickly strung together and not nearly as fancy. And I don't have a proper reproduction 18th century style pocket watch to wear with it. But regardless, it's nice to have these to add a little more life in the outfit.</span></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">The hat is a buckram hat with a wired brim. It's covered with white silk and decorated with strips of striped silk taffeta. It's hand sewn the same was as all my previous buckram hats so I didn't bother with construction photos.</span></div>
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Augustintytärhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17505151461602176214noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1851544029864723761.post-41037867105122709982013-12-03T13:49:00.000-08:002018-10-18T03:51:12.094-07:00Christmas Ball, 2013<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">The annual Christmas Ball was held again on the last weekend of November in Suomenlinna. I arrived several hours before the ball to meet with a group of pretty ladies from the North. After changing in to our evening attire, we braved the hard and cold wind and walked across the island to visit Ehrensvärd Museum. <a href="http://rococoatelier.blogspot.fi/">Sanna</a> had just made a pair of new dresses, including the gorgeous new saque she wore to the ball, and the museum provided a great photo opportunity. </span><br />
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">I wore my <a href="http://augustintytar.blogspot.fi/2013/10/c-1790-silver-plate-embroidered-english.html">silver embroidered gown</a>. </span></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">My husband got me a new fan as an early birthday present. It's my third fan from <a href="http://thetreasuresofdawn.blogspot.fi/">Aurora</a> and it might be my favorite of them all. I love the simple neoclassical design.</span></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">I thought that the sparkly sequined fan went well with the glittering embroidery of the dress. An effect that's impossible to capture with camera though. I tried playing with sharpness to try to bring it out more, but it's beyond my photo editing skills.</span></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">Parts of the exhibition were unfortunately closed but there were still some nice objects to see. </span></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">In my pre ball excitement I asked my husband to take photos of two portraits of ladies wearing court gowns but I completely forgot to ask photos of the labels. So I must apologize for not being able to tell more about them until I visit the museum again.</span></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">There were also several examples of gorgeous tilework and of course I had to pose in front of all of them. </span></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">The view from one of the windows.</span></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">The ball was held in Tenalji von Fersen, the old granary of the fortress bakery, built in 1775. I love the high arched ceiling. These photos were taken before the ball during an 18th century fair, open for spectators.</span></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">The musketeers had several presentations during the day. </span></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">After sundown the ball begun. We started with a terrific 18th century style dinner. I have so much admiration to our cooks, especially Marianne who has, for several years now, come to cook for us all the way from Sweden. Also, some of the foods were presented in clever and debauched arrangements which was highly amusing. </span></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">I was also extremely happy to get to meet <a href="http://isiswardrobe.blogspot.fi/">Isis</a> for the first time. I loved her new dress. And it was wonderful to get to witness the effects of her authentic 18th century cosmetics in person. I was so impressed with the beautiful glow it created for her skin. </span></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">Just before dessert my evening took a turn for worse and all of a sudden I didn't feel well at all. It got so bad that there was no way I could have stayed any longer. I had to leave before the ball properly even started so regrettably I don't have any photos of any of the guests in their evening finery. And I was crushed that the time spent with friends was cut so short. I hope everyone had a wonderful time and I look forward to hearing all about it soon.</span></div>
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Augustintytärhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17505151461602176214noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1851544029864723761.post-34534537928240970642013-12-01T10:35:00.001-08:002018-10-18T03:49:55.632-07:001780's shoes<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">I have always loved the <a href="http://www.batashoemuseum.ca/exhibitions/charm_of_rococo/index.shtml">pink and black high heeled shoes in The Bata Shoe Museum's collection</a>. I didn't aim to do a reproduction pair but I wanted to keep the main features, the color, the pointed toe and the high heels. As for the most obvious differences, I wanted to make mine without embroidery and with randed construction. It's a little old fashioned technique for 1780's but I have seen surviving examples of <a href="http://eng.shoe-icons.com/collection/object.htm?id=1404">fashionable randed late 18th century shoes</a></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">. </span><br />
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">My husband carved me the quirky tilted heels from wood and I made the uppers with silk satin and linen, bound with silk paduasoy ribbon. Toe boxes are reinforced with leather. Soles and rands are of leather. The shoes are hand stitched with linen and silk thread.</span><br />
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">The shoes worn with my <a href="http://augustintytar.blogspot.fi/2011/09/late-18th-century-stockings-2011.html">silk stockings</a> and <a href="http://augustintytar.blogspot.fi/2011/09/late-18th-century-garters-2011.html">garters</a>.</span></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">Construction:</span></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">Heels ready.</span></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">Stitching the uppers.</span></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">Stitching the insoles with uppers and rand.</span></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">The rand ready to be stitched to the outsole and heel cover in place.</span></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">The heel in place.</span></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">After this stage the outsoles were stitched on through the rand and the edge of the heel cover. The stitches run in a groove cut along the edge of the outsoles.</span></div>
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<br />Augustintytärhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17505151461602176214noreply@blogger.com