sunnuntai 6. toukokuuta 2012

1780's stays, 2012

My favorite surviving 18th century stays can be found in the Victoria & Albert museums collections. As my previous stays were starting to show signs of wear, I thought it was a good time to make my version of them. The top layer is light brown cotton, the next two layers underneath are linen canvas and the lining is of fine white linen. They are completely hand stitched, mainly with pale blue linen thread, but I also used white linen occasionally and silk twist for the back lacing holes. The pattern is my own and, as I was drawing it, I tried to achieve a close resemblance to the original stays but also to achieve a better fit than in all my previous stays. I have an x body type, and my previous stays have been too tubular to fit me well. I used cane for boning. I was planning on experimenting with high land cattle horn for durability, but as I haven't had problem with snapping in my previous stays and these were to become almost fully boned, I chose 1/4 inch wide flat caning that I narrowed down to an almost tooth pick width of 2-3 mm. The front and back bones are narrowed down from a sturdier 1/2 inch wide flat cane. The seams are covered with narrow silk ribbon and the stays are bound with straight cut self fabric strips as it looks like it was done that way in the original stays too. Armholes are bound with ivory chamois leather.








Close-ups:




















The construction:

First I outlined the pieces by stitching around the edges through all three layers. After they were outlined, I stitched the boning channels.

Then I boned the channels.


I turned under the center front and center back edges and made the lacing holes. 


Then I turned under the seam allowances and whip stitched them down.


I joined the pieces by whip stitching, covered the seams and started binding the stays.


I finished the binding an added shoulder traps.

The last step was adding the lining.

90 kommenttia:

  1. This is the most beautiful reproduction garment I have ever seen ANYONE create. Exquisite is not a good enough word to describe them. I am in awe of you. Amazing!

    VastaaPoista
  2. Fantastic, another great work of art. Bravo!

    VastaaPoista
  3. This is absolutely beautiful. I love the detail! It's so perfect. Amazing. :)

    VastaaPoista
  4. You create the most beautiful and exquisitely sewn pieces! Gorgeous!!

    VastaaPoista
  5. Lovely.....what did you bone them with please? My last stays I used split reed but have found it can become quite brittle in centrally heated homes and can break!

    VastaaPoista
    Vastaukset
    1. Thank you! I used cane like in most of my stays. I've heard of some people having trouble with breaking, but I've had only good experiences so far.

      Poista
  6. Truly incredible! Absolutely gorgeous work of art!

    VastaaPoista
  7. I am in complete awe of you, and your skill. This is so lovely! It's breath taking.

    VastaaPoista
  8. Absolutely stunning! So beautifully made...and you look beautiful as well.
    I just discovered your blog and I've very much enjoyed reading through your previous posts. You are doing fabulous work. I was blown away by the shoes you made yourself!

    VastaaPoista
  9. I admire your talent and skill so much.I would love to be able to have the ability to be able to create and produce such an exquisite piece of work.I agree..breathtaking!

    VastaaPoista
  10. Hands down, the most exquisite hand sewing I have ever seen. You have set the bar very high for the rest of us! Lovely work, even more beautiful than the original. Thank you for sharing this.

    VastaaPoista
  11. You do the most beautiful hand-stitching, and this is without a doubt the most incredible 18th century reproduction of stays I have ever seen on any of the blogs or journals so far. I am in awe!

    VastaaPoista
  12. Yhyy, hyvä etten itke ihastuksesta! Ihan älyttömän kauniit! Ja mikä muoto! Ihastutavat kurvit! Sun täytyy pistellä ku hullu, miten ehdit saada tän kaiken aikaan?! Itellä ihan hirveän kiireistä ollut, onneksi valmistun nyt ens kuun alussa ja loppuu tää opintojen loppukiri! Oon ollu suorastaan masentunu ku ei oo ollu rahaa eikä aikaa ommella mitään 1700-luvun juttuja!

    VastaaPoista
    Vastaukset
    1. Kiitos! Ja joo, on tullut pisteltyä kuin hullu. :) Tuohonkin meni varmaan joku 120 tuntia ja siihen vielä kokopäivätyö ja liikunta ja vähän ajanviettoa miehen ja kavereiren kanssa niin välillä tuntui, ettei kyllä vuorokaudessa riitä tunnit. Onneksi se on nyt ohi. :)

      Ja kuukausi menee nopeasti. Kohta taas päästään ihailemaan kaikkea ihanaa mitä olet ommelut.

      Poista
    2. Kauheeta, miten sä ehdit ja jaksat? :D Mä aina laiminlyön jotain noista asioista tai useampaaki ku oikeen innostun omepelemaan. Nyt oon pakottanu itteni pyöräilemään töihin, että tulis harrastettua ees jonkinlaista liikuntaa ja ulkoiltua. Onneksi nyt ilmat on parantunu niin teen sen paljon mielummin.

      Muuten, tuli tässä mieleen kun luin tota sun tekstiä näistä kureliveistä, että ku mulla on kans ollu vähän ongelmaa siinä, että noista kureliiveistä tulee liian putkimaisia ku ite haluisin taas enemmän kurvia kun sitä kerran itseltäki löytyy (ei kyllä niin radikaalisti ku sulla mutta kuitenkin) niin olisko sulla mitään vinkkejä noiden kaavoituksen suhteen että miten sitä muotoa saa enemmän? Onnistuin vähän paremmin noissa uusimmissa mut en oo vieläkään ihan tyytyväinen.

      Poista
    3. Minusta parhaat paikat saada lisää muotoa on lisätä runsaasti ulospäin suuntautuvaa kaarevuutta eritoten taka- ja takasivupalan sekä takasivupalan ja sivupalan välisiin saumoihin alaspäin mentäessä suorien saumojen sijaan. Toinen olennainen kohta on jyrkentää etupalojen kaarta. Siitä voi tehdä hyvinkin jyrkän, melkein 90 asteen kulmassa ja se antaa paljon todella paljon muotoa, mutta jos kaaren alaosaa kovertaa liian syvälle , se voi tehdä korsetista epämukavan, sillä se saattaa alkaa painaa alempia kylkiluita ja rintalastaa.

      Jostain syystä en saa kommentoitua blogiisi uutta korsettiasi, mutta siitä tuli tosi hieno! Tykkään tosi paljon valkoisesta tikkauksesta tummalla kankaalla ja mun mielestä se muotokin on kyllä tosi onnistunut.

      Poista
    4. Joo hei kattelin muutamia tollasia esimerkkejä kureliiveistä, joissa on noissa palasissa paljon kaarta, pitääpä kokeilla jotain sen tyyppistä. Kiitos vinkeistä! Itselläni kylkiluut näyttää - miten sen nyt sanoisi - sojottavan hieman ulospäin, joten ihan hirveästi en tietenkään voi saada sitä kaarta tuohon eteen tai musta tuntuu myös, että se tuntuis tosi epämukavalle. Pitää silti kokeilla.

      En jaksaisi enää käyttää aikaa kureliiveihin, kun mulla on niin monta mekkoa jo suunnitteilla enkä malttaisi olla ompelematta niitä. Mutta onneksi mulla on sen verran kärsivällisyyttä nykyään, että jaksan nähdä vaivaa saadakseni hyvät alusvaatteet, kun joskus olen niissä liikaa hätiköinyt ja sitten myöhemmin on harmittanut, kun niitä ei ole tehnyt kunnolla.

      Onpa outoa, ettet voi kommentoida siihen blogiin... Katsoin asetuksistakin, ettei siellä pitäisi olla mitään estoja tai muitakaan. :O

      Poista
    5. Niinhän se menee, korsetteja on toisaalta ihana tehdä ja aina kun sellaista ei ole työn alla, tekisi mieli tehdä uusi vielä parempi, mutta sitten kun niitä on jonkin aikaa tehnyt eikä pääse tekemään niitä kaikkia ihania mekkoja siihen päälle, alkaa tuntumaan että on jäänyt jumiin alusvaatteisiin ja haluaisi jo päästä eteenpäin. Mutta hyvällä korsetilla mekko näyttää paremmalta, joten kyllähän se kannattaa kun vaan malttaa.

      Se kommentointiongelma on tosiaan varmaan mun päässä. Päivitin tietokoneen ja nyt näyttäisi toimivan. :)

      Poista
  13. Stunning work, as always! I do fear caning because I doubt they would support my less than slim figure, but I love the look of the narrow channels!

    VastaaPoista
    Vastaukset
    1. Thank you!

      Cane seems to be a controversial boning material. I've been very lucky with it, but I wouldn't feel comfortable recommending it to anyone using it for the first time for themselves.

      Poista
  14. Absolutely stunning craftsmanship. Just gorgeous.

    VastaaPoista
  15. You're the best!!! Very beautiful work and passion. I admire your talent. Congratulation!:)

    VastaaPoista
  16. Gorgeous! I wish mine were half this beautiful... you really are exceedingly talented!

    VastaaPoista
  17. I absolutely love love love these stays you've made. I can't believe still that you do all sewing by hand! Incredible :D All the little details and everything, it is exquisite. I'm running out of words here, it's just amazingly awesome. Thank you for sharing these photos. Gives me great inspiration!

    VastaaPoista
  18. Hi,
    Having just found your blog and looked through all your work I have to amdit that it is fabulous. I wonder if you have some professional training or are you a so-called self-made tailor ? 17th and 18th century are also the favourites of me and my daughter and we have been doing some gowns as well, mostly to participate at a yearly event at Vaux le Vicomte castle in France. Here is my daughter's blog on everything she finds beautiful.
    http://butterfliesonapostcard.tumblr.com/
    Do you use ready-made patterns for the gowns and stays or do you make them yourself based on pictures ?
    Congratulations again and by the way minäkin olen Suomesta lähtöisin...

    VastaaPoista
    Vastaukset
    1. Thank you!

      And so nice to hear from another Finn, expatriate or not. :)

      I'm a self-learned amateur. I base my dresses mostly on a few pattern books, basically Patterns of Fashion (Janet Arnold) and The Cut of Women's Clothes (Norah Waugh). On a few occasions I have made the patterns myself.

      I wish I could attend the Waux le Vicomte event one day! I've been dreaming about going for a few years now. Who knows, maybe we get a chance to meet there some day.

      Poista
    2. Hope you will come some day! It makes the year seem a lot brighter when you are walking in the castle's garden....
      I just wanted to ask, would you consider sending me the patterns you used to make your stays? I've been dying to make one, and I think yours is perfect (:
      I know I have a smaller figure than yours, but surely I'll be able to adapt it?
      Anyway, thanks again, and I'm looking forward to all your new work!

      Poista
    3. I can send it if you like. I have tried my hardest to make it suitable mostly for a larger bust and considerable difference in bust-waist and waist-hip -measurements, so to make it fit another body type could mean re-drawing the whole pattern. But if you need to change just the circumference, that can be pretty straightforward.

      Poista
    4. I've managed to draw a pattern that fits me pretty well just by looking at your article! I'm currently sewing all the places where I'll fit the boning and it looks good for now... I'll keep you updated if you want, but thanks a lot :)

      Poista
  19. Like all have said here; absolutely amazing work!! Stunning.

    I have been looking for the perfect 1780s stays pattern to replace an older pair, and like you, my body type is similar. Most patterns for stays are very 'straight laced' and have less of the curved lines I desire for my figure and the look of the late 18th century.
    So my question: did you draft this pattern from photos or did you find a diagram to work from? I can draft a bit, but my experience is with drafting Victorian corsets. I can hazard a guess that 18th century stays could be easier....maybe. I noticed that is is really similar to the Corsets and Crinolines stays patterns, but the back is cut differently and it has a nicer neckline.

    Thank you xoxo
    ~Vienna

    VastaaPoista
    Vastaukset
    1. Thank you very much!

      I did draft it from the photos, but I was certainly influenced by my previous experiences with the Corsets and Crinolines 1780's pattern. I think that is one of the best patterns to start with and then change to the wanted direction.

      Poista
    2. You are so welcome! It's wonderful to see other people who not only sew, but take the 'costuming' to a whole other level of skill that hasn't been seen since the originals were made.

      Thank you for the reply, too.
      The last pair of stays I made was from that book as well, and I agree, It's a great one to use as a reference. I actually went back and looked at those patterns to see if I could alter them sightly.
      I have only ever made 2 pairs of stays in my life so far, and this will be my first foray into the late 18th century. This blog entry of yours and the pictures, will also be of great help in the construction.
      I can only hope they turn out, even remotely, as nice as yours ;-)

      Thank you again,
      ~Vienna

      Poista
  20. Beautiful! No other words needed, but beautiful!

    VastaaPoista
  21. This is....just.....stunning! I am absolutely flabbergasted. I don't believe I have seen finer work anywhere, ever. Exquisite is definitely the right word. It doesn't hurt that your figure is what plastic surgeons aspire to create. Absolument parfait!

    VastaaPoista
  22. Seriously, these are the most beautiful reproduction stays I've ever seen, and my friends and I have made our fair share over the years.

    VastaaPoista
    Vastaukset
    1. I'm a friend of Kendra's (Demode). I'm working on an article about stays and corsets for RT Book Reviews and I was wondering if you'd give me permission to use a couple of pictures of yours to illustrate it with? It's really hard to find good examples and museums are very hard to get permissions from for this sort of thing. And of course there would be attribution in the article for you and your work. I totally understand if this isn’t something you’d be comfortable with, but I couldn’t resists asking.

      Poista
    2. I should have added, you can email me at izzy@isobelcarr.com if you don't want to say yes or no in pubic, or if you have questions about the article.

      Poista
    3. I wouldn't mind that at all. Feel free to use as many of the pictures as you like. Thank you for considering me for this!

      Poista
    4. Forgot to ask, what name would you like the photos to be credited to?

      Poista
    5. If it's about copyright, the pictures were taken by my husband Mika Seidler. If it's about the stays, my name is Merja Palkivaara.

      Poista
  23. These are breathtakingly beautiful! Such exquisite workmanship! I would be interested in buying a copy of your pattern if you decide to offer it. I am just about to begin my third pair for costume reenactment and would feel honored to give these a try. Please let me know at ashcraft@together.net. Really, I don't know if there are words to describe what a thing of beauty you have created.

    VastaaPoista
  24. Hi! I agree 100% with Sharon Ashcraft and would also like to buy a copy of the pattern if possible. Your model is possibly the most perfect one I've seen so far. My e-mail is anna.spathon@gmail.com

    VastaaPoista
    Vastaukset
    1. Thank you! I've had quite a many inquiries about the pattern so I have planned on scanning it and posting it here when I get the time to prepare it properly.

      Poista
  25. Hi! Your stays are *amazing*! Count me among the many who would also like to purchase a copy of your pattern, if it's possible. I'd be happy to alter it to fit my body. It's really perfect and unique!! My email is muirne81@gmail.com Thank you!

    VastaaPoista
    Vastaukset
    1. Thank you!

      There's been a lot of interest in the pattern so I've planned on scanning it and posting it here eventually as soon as I find the time. I hope everyone interested will find it useful that way.

      Poista
  26. Hello!
    Your work is absolutely wonderful! I fell in love with the delicacy of your work!
    If I understood in a previous post you draw the pattern of this corset from the photograph of the corset! bravo!!
    This is a very long time I am looking for a similar pattern,I read in your last post you post the pattern corset here? I would also like to purchase a copy of your pattern, but if you post the pattern for all, I want send you a big thank you for this very great future sharing!
    I hope that you will try to publish the pattern soon, I'd love to try to make me this corset for the 2013 edition of Vaux le Vicomte, which will take place in late May!

    Have beautiful day! and thank to sharing your great talent with all of us!

    VastaaPoista
  27. Hello!
    I do not stop to think about your wonderful corset since I discovered it yesterday! You propose to post the pattern on your blog, but I confess to being so impatient ;-)... then I would dare to ask you if you could possibly send me the pattern at my email address: Estherelia@wanadoo.fr ?
    I know I would never do as well as you because you made ​​a exeptionnel work, but I will try to honor your work :-)
    If you have the kindness to send me I would be the happiest of seamstresses, a thousand times thank you in advance for that!

    Thank you! :-)

    VastaaPoista
    Vastaukset
    1. Thank you very much for all the compliments! I finally went out to find the pattern and was able to post it here. I hope you will find it useful. :)

      Poista
  28. Hello!
    Thank you so mutch for the pattern!
    I started to cut the pattern corset! I hope that I will be worthy of your corset!

    Best regard! and thank you again!

    VastaaPoista
  29. I love all your things! I am actually new to Finland (in Helsinki) and was so excited to find your blog! Are you still doing costuming these days? I have been wanting to get back to costuming and such (including making my future wedding dress), but most or all of my costuming resources are for back in the US and I imagine that there are lots of great things I just don't know about in this area. Would you let me pick your brain about resources here? This pattern is by far one of the better 18th century corset patterns I have been able to see in my online searches! Might I have a look at it as well?

    VastaaPoista
    Vastaukset
    1. Hi and welcome to Finland! I'm currently sewing like mad to get everything ready for my trip to Costume College in few weeks.

      All my main sources are in US too. You can find some suitable materials here, but it's usually so expensive that it's better to order it elsewhere. Some basic cottons and linens can be found at a reasonable price from Eurokangas and I've been going to Nappitalo, Tikata and Menita (all in Helsinki) for some notions. Belle Modeste has good corset supplies. That's about it. The rest are all in the US.

      If you are interested, I have the pattern online here:
      http://augustintytar.blogspot.fi/2013/04/my-stays-pattern.html

      Poista
  30. Hi! First of all! Beautiful corset. Recognizing it from Jill Salens book Corsets. I have been wanting to try her pattern for a long time, but fear the fitting process and rezising. I have never worked with stays before, but am well known to Victorian corsetry. Do you have any tips?
    What are type of fabric are your three layers?
    I do not understand the phrase:

    VastaaPoista
    Vastaukset
    1. Thank you! I actually haven't tried any of Jill Salens' patterns either, but my friends have had good experiences with them. Fitting and resizing can be a challenge, but if you compare your measurements carefully to the pattern and are prepared to make a quick boned mock-up, I'm sure you will succeed. I would recommend not using too heavy boning material for 18th century stays. I used spring steel on my first stays and they were rigid as armor and that made them very uncomfortable. The three layers in these stays are two of linen canvas and one cotton.

      Poista
  31. Your stays are exquisite, as is each and every costume you have posted on your blog. It looks as though you don't turn under any fabric at the top and bottom of each piece; the only seam allowances look like they are on the sides, yes? And do you fold in all three layers or do you trim away the bottom tow and only use the top layer. Thank you for sharing!

    VastaaPoista
    Vastaukset
    1. Thank you very much! There are seam allowances on the side seams only. I folded all three layers and tried to catch each layer when I whip stitched the seams.

      Poista
  32. My dear, I've been admiring your work for sometime. You are what I aspire to for my historical sewing - though I'm not quite there yet. And I also have to say, as an academic dress historian (well, I'm writing my PhD dissertation now, so...close enough?) who (currently) focuses on 18th century dress construction it's my business to examine as many surviving examples as I can. I haven't examined this particular pair from the V&A, but have got up close and personal with several other pairs in England from late in the century (and all through the century) and these are PERFECT. I believe you are getting the closest experience of the late 18th century female body a person not actually living in that time could get. I'm itching to do a c. 1790 ensemble for myself this year based off a pattern in Cut of Women's Clothes, the original of which I examined inside and out at the Museum of London, and this is just the style of stays I want under it. I will be referencing this post repeatedly while I work on them!

    VastaaPoista
  33. Superb workmanship, and your shoemaking skills leave me speechless with admiration. Marvellous!

    VastaaPoista
  34. What are the blue strips on the ouside of the stays?

    VastaaPoista
  35. Hello! This is the most beautiful reproduction I've ever seen! Do you have a shop or can you do a custom order?
    Many thanks.

    VastaaPoista
  36. Hello, Marvelous work!!!! Stunning!
    could you please send the pattern to my email? I would be very greatfull.
    ma.sweetheresy@gmail.com
    Thanks you very much

    VastaaPoista
    Vastaukset
    1. Sorry! I found the pattern in the blog already! Thanks a lot!!

      Poista
  37. Sorry! I found the pattern in the blog already! Thanks a lot!!

    VastaaPoista