keskiviikko 27. syyskuuta 2017

Mid 18th century riding habit

This is my take on the famous 1730-1750 riding habit jacket in Janet Arnold's Patterns of Fashion 1 and the equally famous riding habit jacket in V&A museum. It's in three pieces; a wool petticoat, a wool jacket with silk and linen linings and a silk waistcoat with a plain linen back. It's hand sewn with silk and linen treads. Underneath I'm wearing stays, a riding habit shirt, a small hip pad (shaped to emphasise hips more than the back) and linen petticoats. The jacket is trimmed with wide silver ribbon and narrow silver gimp trim added on top on both sides.

Insides / construction photos:

I backstitched the jacket outer layer together.

Then I turned the seam allowances on one side and, using a spaced backstitch, stitched another line close to the seam. This topstitching seems to have been a common feature in 18th century riding habits. You can see it in the high resolution photos in the V&A jacket as well. 

Here's how it looks on the outside.

I stiffened the jacket fronts with linen canvas pieces. Those, with additional help from the trim, keep the jacket fronts straight and well in shape.

Jacket lining and silk front facings.

I used an 18th century reproduction silk for the waistcoat. I had very little of it so I had to piece it in few places. I think I like it more with these small details.

I joined the jacket and waistcoat skirt linings with the top layer with running stitch, smaller stitch showing on top.

I top stitched the bust darts too on both, the jacket and the waistcoat.

Waistcoat has lacing down the back.