keskiviikko 27. syyskuuta 2017

Mid 18th century riding habit

This is my take on the famous 1730-1750 riding habit jacket in Janet Arnold's Patterns of Fashion 1 and the equally famous riding habit jacket in V&A museum. It's in three pieces; a wool petticoat, a wool jacket with silk and linen linings and a silk waistcoat with a plain linen back. It's hand sewn with silk and linen treads. Underneath I'm wearing stays, a riding habit shirt, a small hip pad (shaped to emphasise hips more than the back) and linen petticoats. The jacket is trimmed with wide silver ribbon and narrow silver gimp trim added on top on both sides.

Insides / construction photos:

I backstitched the jacket outer layer together.

Then I turned the seam allowances on one side and, using a spaced backstitch, stitched another line close to the seam. This topstitching seems to have been a common feature in 18th century riding habits. You can see it in the high resolution photos in the V&A jacket as well. 

Here's how it looks on the outside.

I stiffened the jacket fronts with linen canvas pieces. Those, with additional help from the trim, keep the jacket fronts straight and well in shape.

Jacket lining and silk front facings.

I used an 18th century reproduction silk for the waistcoat. I had very little of it so I had to piece it in few places. I think I like it more with these small details.

I joined the jacket and waistcoat skirt linings with the top layer with running stitch, smaller stitch showing on top.

I top stitched the bust darts too on both, the jacket and the waistcoat.

Waistcoat has lacing down the back.

14 kommenttia:

  1. Oh how wonderful! I love seeing the stitching up close, it is so neat precise and small <3

  2. As pretty as the garment looks I've got a question concerning your hair. :-) I think you used to have hip lenght hair. Did you cut it? Did you wear a wig for the pictures? If not - how do you achieve the short braid with long hair? It would be so nice to know because I've tried to do my long hair like that several times, but failed.

    1. You remember correctly. But I did cut my hair about a month ago. There's about three inches of the ends looped up in this braid but my hair is much shorter now that it used to be. So unfortunately I don't have any tips to share.

    2. Maybe I will come up with a solution myself... some day. Thank you for answering my questions, anyway!

  3. And yet I see no horse in any of these photos.

  4. Gorgeous work again! This ensemble looks so period perfect but also so very sleek and chic.

  5. A lovely ensemble! The silk for the waistcoat is gorgeous, and I agree that the piecing is quite nice on such a garment. Thanks also for showing the small stitches, it looks great!

  6. Oh how lovely! I especially love the fabric you used for the waistcoat! It's such a beautiful color! The trim on the jacket is super fun. But I think my favorite thing about your whole outfit is your fabulous thick braid! Brava!!

  7. Absolutely stunning ensemble, congratulations! Very inspiring work, as always. And did you make the tricorn, as well?

  8. Very nice work
    I invite you on my blog of old magazines and old french sewing patterns