sunnuntai 15. tammikuuta 2012

Natural form princess line dress

A month ago I saw a victorian portrait of a young lady sitting and holding a book, painted by Gabriel Schachinger. I loved it so much, that I spent the very evening patterning the dress. I had always overlooked the princess line as boring, but now I have changed my mind completely. The simplicity can be very dramatic.

The dress is made of dark ivory duchess silk satin and silk brocade. It's lined with cotton sateen and trimmed with marabou feathers. It is machine sewn and hand finished. The dress pattern is based on the 1878 afternoon dress from The Cut of Women's Clothes. 













The dress is a very simple without the short vest. Maybe even a little too simple for my taste.


Much better:



I wore it over my combination underwear and 1880's corset, a trained cotton petticoat and a corset cover.



The construction:

As it's a simple style so the construction is very straight forward. Each piece was flatlined with the cotton and after sewing the seams, the seam allowances were whip stitched to the lining. Then the hem was faced with the same cotton. The collar is the bias binding type that you see often in this and the previous era. The lacing holes are hand sewn by whip stitching. I decided to leave it unboned as it is meant to be just a house dress and because I've gotten an impression that leaving a bodice unboned was sometimes encouraged to get a natural, conforming look from some victorian writings.



For the little vest, I cut the top part of my dress mock-up in to two pieces an used them as a pattern.



The vest was also flatlined with cotton. I faced the edges with bias cut cotton, made the fabric covered buttons, stitched the button holes using button hole stitch and trimmed it with the feathers. The feather boa is whip stitched on the edges.


And the portrait. My dress ended up being quite modest compared to the one in the portrait. And somehow it has a completely different feel, but I don't care.

Gabriel Schachinger, Das Vergissmeinnicht, 1886

26 kommenttia:

  1. It is amazing as always!
    I really enjoy reading your blog and looking at everything you create (:

    VastaaPoista
  2. Gorgeous! I love the princess line! I can't believe how fast you sew these things up.

    I think I actually like it a bit better without the vest, but then, I'm all about minimalism ;-) It's a really bad trait in a historical costumer!

    VastaaPoista
    Vastaukset
    1. Thank you!

      I used to be all about minimalism too, but then this hobby spoilt me. :)

      Poista
  3. It is always such a huge delight to see your creations!
    Your latest dress is simple, yet breathtaking beautiful perfection placed in an amazing winter wonderland setting, what else could we ask for:)

    Sabine

    VastaaPoista
    Vastaukset
    1. Thank you!

      It was so nice to finally get some snow. A few weeks back these pictures would have been taken against a dark ground.

      Poista
  4. Wow it is amazing!! So beautiful. :)

    VastaaPoista
  5. Absolutely amazing!!!! You look gorgeous!

    VastaaPoista
  6. You look amazing on it. Goog job

    Nereida

    VastaaPoista
  7. Just found your website and wow, you are an inspiration to an novice costumer!

    VastaaPoista
  8. Stunning ! This dress is simply perfect, and how a beautiful silhouette. You have my complete admiration for all your work *__*

    VastaaPoista
  9. Oh, this is heaven. It's absolutely beautiful. I can't believe you got satin to lay so beautifully! There is some magic in your hands!

    VastaaPoista
  10. Found your blog by chance! I love this very sexy creation...

    VastaaPoista