sunnuntai 16. joulukuuta 2012

1874 day dress after a dress in V&A

This dress from the V&A collections has always been a favorite of mine. It's feminine and masculine at the same time. It's a perfect example of two tones of the same color in one dress, very popular choice for mid 1870's. And it doesn't hurt to have the pattern and construction details in Janet Arnold's Patterns of Fashion. I used light blue and dark blue silk taffeta. I flat lined the bodice and faced the hem with plain cotton. The waistbands and the tapes for making the back poufs are silk petersham. All buttons are covered wooden molds. I tried sticking to the original construction as much as possible. Most notable differences are the cuffs, stitching down the bodice decoration around the outer edge as well and changing the skirt opening to center back. I also didn't think the side seams really needed boning, so I boned only the darts. The main seams are machine sewn, except the piped sleeve seams that are hand sewn. All the finishing and trimming is also hand sewn. The dress is worn over a laughing moon bustle and my early bustle underwear. I made the hat from a slightly mismatching grey silk taffeta. The pattern is from Miller's Millinery and I decorated it with the same black and grey striped silk taffeta that I've been using a lot lately. And the gloves are the same ones I made a few months back.

















Because it's freezing cold and snowy outside, we took the pictures in a Victorian era winter garden, owned by the city of Helsinki. It's a beautiful place, free for everyone to visit and you can even bring a picnic basket with you and have a picnic in the middle of winter.


Construction pictures:

On the overskirt I made a narrow facing and then sewed on the bias cut strips of the dark blue silk.


Trimmed overskirt without the revers.


I covered a lot of wooden button molds for the decoration.


For the mock button holes I decided to make a narrow tube of fabric in a similar technique as if I was making a rolled hem.


Then I cut the tube in 6 cm pieces and iron them in shape.


I decorated the skirt fronts before sewing the skirt together.


The skirt without the overskirt.


The insides of the skirt.


The overskirt inside out. It buttons on through buttonholes on the skirt side back seams.



The insides of the bodice.


The hat frame is hand sewn from buckram.


I'm incapable of making fabulous over-the-top hats. Mine are always pretty simple.


The cotton lining.


The LM bustle.




48 kommenttia:

  1. I'm in love with the back of your dress, it's perfect. And the hat is so cute ! Bravo.

    VastaaPoista
  2. i know the dress from the book from J.Arnold i love this dress and your are looking perfect!

    VastaaPoista
  3. Dying a little because I need that dress so badly! Also I think your hats are pretty awesome, I would love to be able to make hats like that!

    It's funny, I never knew Petersham was a material, it's a suburb near where I live, one of my friends live there. How funny!

    VastaaPoista
    Vastaukset
    1. Thank you!

      And no-one uses petersham ribbon anymore and it's very hard to find these days, so no wonder you haven't heard about it before. :)

      Poista
  4. WOW! You look stunning, and the dress is wonderful!!! I especially love that cute little box pleated peplum in the back. But really, the colors and shapes and proportions are so lovely to look at! I hope you get to wear that often, because you deserve to show it off!

    Best,
    Quinn

    VastaaPoista
    Vastaukset
    1. Thank you!

      Unfortunately bustle events are practically nonexistent around here, but I keep hoping for more of them in the future.

      Poista
  5. Oh, wow, that is so beautiful! I love it! You look amazing in it, and I love where you took the photos! What a cool place!

    VastaaPoista
  6. Thank you so much for sharing your beautiful work! I have looked at this dress for years in my costume history textbooks and Janet Arnold's pattern book. You truly inspire me.

    VastaaPoista
    Vastaukset
    1. Thank you! I'm so grateful that you have shown interest in my work.

      Poista
  7. A masterpiece! Thank you for the construction details, it really helped me see how the entire ensemble was created. Congrats to you on your wonderful creation.

    VastaaPoista
    Vastaukset
    1. Thank you! I'm glad to hear the pictures were helpful.

      Poista
  8. Bravo! Once again a true masterpiece with such a perfect eye for detail! Although - I'm afraid - it's not one of my favourite eras, this dress is absolutley gorgeous and suits you so well!!! I love how you set period effects like adding a hat (which is not simple, but simply amazing!) with a slightly different grey, makes it feel being such a real piece together.
    And the choice of setting: just stunning! What a beautiful greenhouse with all the steel ornaments. Again this feels like seeing you stepping back into the 1870s. Thank you so much for sharing your dress in detail :)
    Sabine

    VastaaPoista
    Vastaukset
    1. Thank you very much for all the compliments! It feels wonderful to be appreciated by someone so skilled and amazing as you.

      Poista
  9. Absolute perfection! Wonderful work indeed!

    VastaaPoista
  10. Incredible! Wonderful! Perfect! The images are beautiful and the photos that explain the process very enlightening. Millions of thanks!

    VastaaPoista
  11. Oh swoon! I need a bustle dress!! Great construction pictures too!
    -Emily

    VastaaPoista
  12. It's stunning, but then I didn't expect less from you. :)

    VastaaPoista
  13. Is it possible for you to make anything that is not 1000% amazingly stunningly beautifully perfect? I don't think so! Another masterpiece!

    VastaaPoista
    Vastaukset
    1. Thank you so much! You have just made my day.

      Poista
  14. Cannot believe it!!! This dress is just gorgeous... I'm so jalous when I see such skills for sewing.... Santa will bring me my first sewing machine this Xmas... I will learn little by little...
    I'm a fan of 40's-50's fashion and wear vintage everyday, my mum always ask me how would have look if I was crazy about the XIXth century... I must show her your pictures!!!!

    VastaaPoista
    Vastaukset
    1. Thank you!

      How fabulous that you wear vintage every day! I love it when people have it in them to do so.
      And good luck with your sewing. I'm sure you will find out that you can sew anything you want in no time at all.

      Poista
  15. I can't get over this dress... it's too gorgeous! In my opinion, it's even lovelier than the original. Your color choice is perfect, and the detail... such patience :)

    VastaaPoista
  16. I saw your gown when it was first started but missed seeing more of it. I'm glad now I've found your blog and being able to see it's beautiful completion.
    Val

    VastaaPoista
    Vastaukset
    1. Thank you! It took me shamefully long to complete it, but better late than never. :)

      Poista
  17. That´s so wonderful! All the dresses and corsets at your site are so beautiful and perfect!

    VastaaPoista
  18. Hei, mistä muuten yleensä hankit sun silkit? Netistä? Linkkejä? Mä oon ettiny jotain tällaista vaaleensinistä robe a la polonaiseen jo jonkin aikaa...

    VastaaPoista
    Vastaukset
    1. Moi! Tuo silkki on ostettu vuosia sitten täältä: http://www.renaissancefabrics.net/ Todella hyvä paikka ostaa. Aina tarkoitukseen sopiva laatu ja saa juuri sitä mitä on tilannutkin. Juuri tuota samaa väriä ei näytä tällä hetkellä olevan saatavilla, mutta sitä tulee aina säännöllisesti lisää. Hinnat alkavat vaan olla, ainakin minulle, jo melkein kipurajoilla.

      Tämä on vähän halvempi paikka hankkia http://www.puresilks.us/ mutta paketista saattaa löytyä aina jotain yllättävää, joko värin tai laadun puolesta, joten testipalan tilaus on enemmän kuin suositeltavaa.

      Nyt ihan tuoreeltaan tilasin täältä: http://www.decorativesilk.com/Scripts/default.asp ja tuli aivan ihana kangas, joten sitäkin voin suositella. Ei taas ihan se halvin paikka, mutta ei kalliskaan ja tosi laadukkat kankaat.

      Poista
    2. Hei, kiitti linkeistä! Oon itekin tosi varovainen ja epäluuloinen mitä tulee kankaiden netistä tilaamiseen... Aina jotenkin enemmän tai vähemmän epäilyttävän näköisiä sivuja ja mulla on tullut ainakin pari kertaa epämiellyttäviä ylläreitä postissa, kun eihän nuo kuvat vastaa aina sitä mitä kangas on todellisuudessa. Toisaalta Suomessa silkit maksaa ihan kamalia, hiukset suurinpiirtein nousi pystyyn, kun katoin Villisilkin sivuilta silkkitaftin hintoja (alkaen 65 euroa metri). Ja tuo taitaa olla just ainoa paikka, mistä täällä Oulussa sais muutakin kuin sitä dupioni-silkkiä. (Toki muutamia poikkeuksia löytyy mutta yleensä silkkitaftia ei täältä muualta saa, varsinkaan toivotuissa väreissä). Siks mä oon yleensä tyytynyt polyesteritafteihin, kun niitä pääsee kokeilemaan liikkeissä ilman, että pitäs oottaa koepalaa postissa, ja ku värin ja laadun näkee heti ja kankaan saa mukaan saman tien jne. jne.

      Poista
    3. Suomen silkkihinnat on ihan kauheita! Olisi mielettömän hienoa päästä ostamaan taftit ja satiinit paikan päältä, mutta näillä hinnoilla ei onnistu. Pakko vaan ottaa nettiostoriskejä. Useimmiten ne onnistuu kyllä kun tuntee kaupan, mutta ne halvimmat sivustot onkin sitten vähän enemmän yllätyksellisiä...

      Poista
  19. I love this dress so much and your absolutely stunning! Perfect proportions. Wow wow wow wow.....

    VastaaPoista
  20. I am SO impressed by you and the detail and good taste you put in to your work. Wow. I go to many reproduction/costume sites but I'm always turned OFF off off OFF by the garish colors and poorly constructed dresses that look like children's costumes. One of my super half-secret fantasies is to be just self confident enough to simply decide to dress in period garb always, to enjoy corsets and the swish of a very large skirt. I wish I had a job that allowed that! This website makes me want it more. Good for you, really impressive. :)

    VastaaPoista
    Vastaukset
    1. Thank you very much for your kind compliments!

      Poista
  21. Absolutely beautiful! I am thinking of making this dress myself; may I ask how much light blue and dark blue fabric you used?

    VastaaPoista
    Vastaukset
    1. Thank you very much! I bought both fabrics so long ago that I don't remember exactly but I think I used about 9 yards of the light blue and 3 yards of the dark blue.

      Poista
    2. Wonderful! And I just noticed that you said the pattern is in Janet Arnold's book, which just happens to be available at my local library. Thank you again! All of your projects are amazingly well finished, you could absolutely be a consultant on period movies and plays.

      Poista
  22. This is BEAUTIFUL! I'm making a bustle dress, but I don't have a Laughing Moon Bustle. Is it possible to achieve the same shape with a large bustle pad? Thanks, Henry :)

    VastaaPoista
  23. I have been trying to make a pattern for this exact dress. but it's hard to make a modern pattern out of a documentation. the piece I struggle with is the bodice. do you have any advise?

    VastaaPoista