sunnuntai 11. marraskuuta 2012

1790's jacket and waistcoat, the Princess Anna Gagarina outfit

I was inspired to make an outfit after a portrait of Princess Anna Gagarina painted in 1792-93 by Jean Louis Voille. The portrait doesn't really show much about her attire, so a lot was left to my imagination. To me it looked like a masculine outfit and I wanted to create something like that. Very simple, undecorated and plain. For a long time I was undecided if should I make it as a jacket or a cut-away front gown, but to keep in line with the androgyny, I decided I wanted a jacket. Like a small scale 1790's frock coat. The jacket is made of wool and silk taffeta with linen canvas interlining and the waistcoat is of duchess silk satin and plain weave linen. Petticoat is of wool. They are hand sewn with silk and linen threads. It's worn over my 1780's stays, a shift, a false rump and two linen petticoats. 

(The gloves are the ones I made for my late bustle dress, so they don't have an 18th century style thumb, but I doubt anyone would care. I liked the dark grey with this outfit.)

And a few pictures with the waistcoat lapels visible. I can't decide which way I like it better.

And finally my 1790's fan from the treasures of dawn has a proper 1790's outfit to be used with.

The waistcoat:

It has lacing down the center back.

The handkerchief is a roll hemmed triangle of cotton organdy.

The construction:

I took the basic shape and construction from the striped 1790's man's coat from Costume Close-Up. I reshaped the front edges for a more severe cut-away shape and added large lapels. I stiffened the whole front edge with a linen canvas interlining that I stitched in to the silk taffeta lining using a handy zigzag stitch as shown here by the awesome Drunk Tailor. I also made facings for the lapels on the other side.

The stand up collar is stiffened with linen canvas attached by pad stitching.

Like the Costume Close-Up coat, I stitched the lining and wool pieces together separately using back stitches. Then I sewed the layers together around the edges together with running stitches. And because random leftover fabric linings in 18th century garments makes me happy, I did that for this jacket too. 

The cuffs have a placket opening.

The waistcoat is just two layers of duchess silk satin, seam allowances turned down and stitched together with running stitches, flat felled in to a one layer linen back with lacing. 

I got the idea from the Diary of a Mantua Maker and her riding habit waistcoat.

For the hat I made a buckram frame with a wired brim.

I covered it with black duchess silk satin and striped silk taffeta. Crown lining is of peach silk taffeta.

22 kommenttia:

  1. Absolutely gorgeous and so very handsome!

  2. LOVE it!!! You truly rock the 1790s!
    It's lovely to see that you've chosen what seems to our modern eye an "unusual dress"...and compliments for adding that amazing pointy hat to complete the 1790s look. Gorgeous as always :)


    1. Thank you very much! I've always adored those late 18th century pointy hats so I wanted to give it a try this time.

  3. Once again, an exquisite outfit, superbly photographed.
    I'm curious about the outdoor location.

    1. Thank you!

      The location is our local churchyard of the 15th century church here in Sipoo Finland.

    2. Thank you for that, I showed your photographs to my partner and he immediately commented on the woodwork of the large door and also the stonework of the building.
      I also showed my daughter who is studying fashion and textiles at college and she was very interested in your garments.
      You have many admirers!
      Thank you again.

    3. I love that old church. It's nice to have it just a few steps away.

      And thank you for the compliments. :)

  4. Yet another fabulous ensemble! Thank you for sharing!

  5. Just fantastic! I'm a great admirer of your work.

  6. You are a style icon. You look as if you were directly stepped out of the "journal des luxus und der moden"

  7. Every inch of it looks amazing, as usual :-)

  8. I love love love when left over bits of fabric get used as linings. Almost as much as I love piecing. Something about it lends character to a garment, I think. :)

    1. I'm glad to know I'm not the only one. One day, when I'm not in a rush to finish, I'd love to make a pieced leftover fabric lining like this:
      It doesn't get better than that. :)

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  10. Large clothing factory specializing in the production of various fashion jacket for women.It’s at the store