sunnuntai 20. tammikuuta 2013

1880's corset and a chemise with ball gown neckline

My previous 1880's corset has been too tight around bust and hips from the beginning, but I've always liked it, so I kept using it by lacing it unevenly. Now I was ready to try to make a better fitting corset. The shape didn't come out quite as I envisioned, but at least it can be laced evenly now. One day I'm going to try to make a corset with same fit but rounder curves. 

It's made from black cotton coutil and iridescent duchess silk satin treated as one layer, stitched with light blue silk thread. The seams are flat felled and act as boning channels. The front boning channels are sewn from the outside and made from silk strips and the back channels are strips of coutil sewn from the underside. 

The pattern is the same I used in the previous corset, the 1880's corset from Corsets and Crinolines, but this time I changed the proportions to fit my shape better.

I also needed to make a new chemise with a low back and front neckline to be worn with a ball gown I'm in a process of making. It's made from light weight cotton. The straps and trim is made from three different laces attached to each other to form a wider piece. The pattern came from one of the chemises in Fashions of the Gilded Age. It's machine sewn and hand finished.














To me the best thing about this corset is it's color that changes from purple to fuchsia depending on the direction of light. It was very hard to capture but here are a few more pictures of it in a different lighting.











The chemise:


Chemise pattern:


I took a lot of construction pictures of the corset, but for some reason my camera has lost them. Not that there was anything new or interesting if you are familiar with corset making, but it would have been nice to show the different stages. 

34 kommenttia:

  1. Oh my!!! Most beautiful corset ever!!!

    VastaaPoista
    Vastaukset
    1. Thank you so much! You are making me blush. :)

      Poista
  2. Gorgeous! Simply amazing. And the outfit is very lovely too ;)

    VastaaPoista
  3. Beautifull almost perfect shape.

    VastaaPoista
  4. How beautiful...and what shape it gives! I'm out of words...again it looks so very period and I do love the rows of cording on the top.

    Sabine

    VastaaPoista
  5. It's simply gorgeous. The color is a great choice, the fit is great and oh goodness, corsets are fabulous in general. Remember as we discussed about creating corsets from all decades? I'm still thinking about it often because I've been more interested in corsetry lately and I don't know if I'm even starting to feel like it's much more fun than the costumes!

    VastaaPoista
    Vastaukset
    1. Thank you!

      And I remember. I think I've always been most interested in corsetry. That's what got me started in the first place. It would be great to get to concentrate on them and become a corsetière extaraordinaire. :)

      Poista
  6. J'ai tombé amoureuse de votre corset! Il est parfait et très extraordinaire! J'adore votre blog et vos costumes. Vous êtes très talentueuse!

    VastaaPoista
  7. It is so beautiful! Have been wonderling to some time though: Are you tightlacing, or is your exeptional x-figure just how you are built?

    VastaaPoista
    Vastaukset
    1. Thank you!

      I haven't done any waist training. I only wear corsets when I try things on, take pictures of finished garments or go to events. This corset gives me an almost two inch reduction, pretty much the maximum I can take, but it reshapes everything to look much more dramatic than my natural shape.

      Poista
    2. Wow. You are lucky with a body so suitable for victorian clothing:)

      Poista
  8. Both the corset and the chemise looks fantastic! ...and the gray dress in the background of some of the pictures looks just as nice!

    VastaaPoista
    Vastaukset
    1. Thank you!

      The dress in the background is the early bustle dress I finished last month. I haven't yet taken it in to the storage.

      Poista
  9. If you do recover your photos ever, or have some from another corset, I am very curious to see detailed pics on cording. I have yet to try that technique and can't seem to find clear notes on it anywhere.

    VastaaPoista
    Vastaukset
    1. I will check if I took pictures of the cording process when I was making the corded 1870's corset.
      I found one post about cording a corset from the Dreamstress blog.
      http://thedreamstress.com/2011/09/cording-is-evil-3/

      Poista
  10. Gorgeous!!! I love this color !! (Thanks for your email by the way ;) Cheers.

    VastaaPoista
  11. Do You used somethings tape in waist for strength?:)

    VastaaPoista
    Vastaukset
    1. No. I've found that strong cotton coutil and silk used together make it durable enough and it doesn't need the tape for additional support.

      Poista
  12. Wow it is just absolutely Gorgeous! such care and attention to detail. I just love it.

    VastaaPoista
  13. I love the Chemise, can you give any more detail on how you made it please? I'm quite the beginner.

    VastaaPoista