sunnuntai 26. toukokuuta 2013

Gusseted 1870's corset

Because I have previously tried only the corset types with shaped panels or with a hip basque I have been very curious to give a proper gusseted Victorian corset a try. And because in my opinion 1870's was the last decade before the colorful and luxurious corsets really took over, I wanted this one to look practical and utilitarian. I chose drab coutil because that was one of the most common colors of it's day for an everyday corset. It's a single layer corset with seams sewn as shown here on the right.

source: De Gracieuse archives, year 1872

Basically not sewing the seams together and then felling them, but by first folding part of the seam allowance up on the underside and down on the top side, then pinning the layers together and then sewing them down at the edge of both folds. The gussets are inserted in a similar manner as shown on the top illustration.

The pattern is from 1876. I found it from one of my favorite resources, De Gracieuse archives. It's the bottom left corset here and the pattern pieces can be found here.

It also has several additional bone casings made by sewing strips of coutil inside the corset. The flossing is made with graphite grey silk. It's boned with spiral steel.

For the first time I'm happy with the shape with no complaints. It looks quite small waisted, but in fact it isn't any smaller than any of my previous corsets. It's just an illusion created by having enough flare for bust and hips.








And a few close-ups:







21 kommenttia:

  1. It gives you a wonderful shape! And I think it is very pretty too!

    VastaaPoista
  2. Ah, this corset is gorgeous! And I adore your waist! :)

    VastaaPoista
  3. Pretty! The color is lovely and utilitarian. I'm going to have to remember this style for a future corset... :)

    Thanks for sharing!
    Best,
    Quinn

    VastaaPoista
  4. Just stunning! Beautiful, beautiful corset :)

    VastaaPoista
  5. Practical indeed...and soooooo pretty! It creates a lovely shape and I find it always most rewarding to not only have a new garment, but also gained new knowledge with a project (here: the gussets). Beautiful work!
    Sabine

    VastaaPoista
    Vastaukset
    1. Thank you!

      And learning and finding out new things is always the best part for me too. :)

      Poista
  6. once again, so lovely!!
    I think this same pattern is also available through Ageless Patterns, for those who don't want to decipher the line print patterns of the Victorian fashion periodicals.
    3rd corset from the bottom of the page:
    http://agelesspatterns.com/corsets__4.htm

    This above pattern has been sitting in my collection for a long time, now this is the best inspiration to try it out.
    xoxo

    VastaaPoista
    Vastaukset
    1. Thank you!

      And yes, it looks like it's the same corset. Perhaps in a easier-to-use form. :)

      Poista
  7. Just perfect! Beautiful work! I'm obesessed with this corset!

    VastaaPoista
  8. Hello! I would like to use this pattern, and was just wondering how you did the enlarging, and how you got it to be the proper size? Did you take the file to a print shop, or somehow print it at home by yourself? Thanks!

    VastaaPoista
    Vastaukset
    1. Same question here... I tried printing and resizing but some pieces still seem wrong.

      Poista
  9. I'm so fan of your work that I never dare to comment! Even if I grow up in the costume domain, I'll always feel as a beginner next to you :D

    So, first of all, let me tell you how much I love all of your works. They are SO minutious! ♥ I admire that so much! I follow you on many platforms. But for once it's important to say: thank you for sharing your lovely creations!

    I had a question for you (if you have the time to answer it of course.. I would understand if it's too technical :))

    When you choose a simple pattern like a silverado for example. You can easily change the size to fit your measurements. Because the peices are vertical, all from the top to the bottom. You can easily know where is the waist, etc. But for a corset like this one, with big gussets, and pieces in diagonal... How can you find the waistline for example? and how do you modify the pattern to fit your own body? Of course you can make a fake one and see where to add/shorten the thing. But when you have for example a 26" waist (with a corset) and that your pattern is a 18 inches waist pattern... the gap is too large, it's hard to figure out where to add/where to remove. Well here's my question with a more simple formulation: when the pattern is not your size at all and is a bit complicated, what is tour process? :)

    Thanks a lot for your time, once again, don't feel obliged to answer ♥

    Mary/Melly

    VastaaPoista
  10. All your creations are absolutely exquisite! I'm sorry if you've already answered this somewhere else (I'm sure you get asked this a lot!), but do you ever sell your creations / take commissions?

    VastaaPoista
  11. Jonna I was also wondering the same thing... I was going to ask if you did commissions and if so how much would this specific corset cost? I would make one myself but my corset skills are not good enough to try to replicate this one perfectly and i wouldn't trust anyone else to even try. I'm sure you've answered this before so sorry if its a repeat.
    Thanks! I just love your work.

    ~Caitlin

    VastaaPoista