lauantai 22. maaliskuuta 2014

1809 riding habit in the style of Königin Luise von Preußen

This riding habit was heavily influenced by the two portraits Wilhelm Ternite painted of Queen Louise of Prussia in 1808-1810. I followed the portraits closely but once again didn't set out to do an exact copy. The original is in a museum and, having seen photos of it, I knew it was closer in color to the second of those portraits but I loved the way it looked in the darker portrait so I chose an almost navy blue wool. It's lined with white silk taffeta and trimmed in Hussar fashion with gold military lace, vintage buttons and two different widths of russia braid. Interlining consists of linen canvas and horse hair. Every stitch is hand sewn with linen and silk threads. 

I'm wearing it over my shift and stays, a chemisette and a high waisted petticoat. Accessories include my riding gloves and a ready made wool top hat I trimmed with a tussle I made from ostrich feathers. Shoes and stockings (not visible) are purchased.

Clothing layers:

With only the spencer removed. The wool skirt has shoulder straps to keep it in place.

The cotton petticoat.

The chemisette.


The skirt is patterned after the 1795-1810 riding habit skirt in Janet Arnold's Patterns of Fashion but instead of leaving it long all the way round, I cut the hem floor length in front and left a little train. That seemed to be common with riding habits in fashion plates from around 1810.

I drafted the pattern for the spencer using the portrait and photos of museum spencers as guide. 

Friedrich Wilhelm Ternite, Königin Luise, 1808/09

I sewed the spencer and it's lining together separately. I pad stitched the fronts and collar with two layers of linen canvas with horsehair interlining in between. I needed it to be extra stiff to hold the braiding and the buttons. I braided the spencer before joining it with the lining.

The spencer ready for the lining.

The lining in place.

I'm very grateful to Sabine for sharing all details from her 1806 Paradeuniformkleid Königin Luise -project because otherwise I would have most likely assumed she would have worn a high collar shirt underneath her spencer. Following her example I was able to do a quick and simple version of my own.

There is a base of sturdier cotton.

Which I covered with gathered a layer of sheer cotton.