perjantai 25. heinäkuuta 2014

1740's stays and a mid 18th century shift

The stays are made from two layers of linen canvas, reproduction 18th century silk brocade / droguet as the top layer and linen lining. They are bound with silk grosgrain (the narrower grosgrain over seams is rayon) and hand sewn with linen thread. They are boned with reed.

They are based on the c. 1740 stays in Norah Waugh's Corsets and crinolines with only the side back seams taken in a little at the waist to fit my shape better.

Stays construction:

I constructed them my usual way. After outlining the pieces, I quilted the boning channels.

I inserted the boning, secured the edges and whip stitched the seam allowances down. Then I made the lacing holes.

Then I whipped the seams together, made horizontal boning cases from linen tape in the stomacher and then bound the stays.

Lastly I added the lining.

Shift construction and detail photos: