perjantai 8. helmikuuta 2013

1882 ball gown

There is a Victorian ball tomorrow evening at the Royal Opera House in Stockholm. This was such a rare opportunity that I couldn't pass it. So I needed a dress. The plan was to make an early 1880's ball gown and I wanted something with a subtle twist. The final plan was a mix of two dresses. Both can be found from De Gracieuse. They are also in the Fashions of the Gilded Age which is very convenient because that meant having some kind of pattern for every piece that I needed to make the dress. 

For the base skirt I used pattern of a third dress, also from FotGA and a year 1882. The train and bodice came from this dress.


And the skirt decoration came from this fashion plate. It's from an earlier date, 1879, but I thought that as long as the skirt shape is the very narrow early 1880's one, it's going to look up to date.


I have never particularly liked this fashion plate before, but now I was suddenly drawn to the quirkiness of the contrast between the ruffled side and the smooth shirred side.

The dress is made from pale pink and white iridescent duchess silk satin and silk tulle. The skirt and bodice are flatlined with cotton. The skirt and train hems are faced with heavier quality cotton. The back panel of the skirt, invisible under the train, is just one layer of cotton. All seams are machine sewn. The rest is sewn by hand. I'm wearing it over my new corset and chemise and one cotton petticoat.
















The satin shows through nicely from under the tulle in daylight, but it is a ball gown and is supposed to be worn indoors with dimmer lighting. It looses some of the effect in those conditions but I think it's still ok. (The train is wrinkly from being wet from all the melted snow.)




I started making the appropriate evening gloves, but I underestimated how long it would take me to finish them and I didn't want to spend my last night home before the trip sewing. My husband saved me by bringing me a pair of vintage gloves. Fortunately they fitted me perfectly.

Construction:

The three front panels of the skirt were finished before they were attached to the back panel and train.

Fronts before trimming.


Finished fronts.

The cotton back panel was just hemmed and a drawstring was added in knee hight to hold the fronts back when the dress is worn.

The train is also flatlined and faced around all edges. The few points to lift portions of the train are stitched to the skirt back panel.

The bodice is done the usual way. This time I made it deliberately an inch or so larger than usual. I expect to dance a lot in it and want to be comfortable doing so. It's flatlined, boned on every seam and has piping and facing around all edges except center back edges that are faced with cotton twill.



24 kommenttia:

  1. Have fun at the ball! I'm friends with Patrik Blom, and he invited me to this...unfortunately work/life/not living in Sweden anymore hindered these plans! I can't wait to see the pictures! You look beautiful!

    VastaaPoista
    Vastaukset
    1. Thank you so much!

      The ball was fantastic! I wish you could have been there. I believe this could have been the first annual Grand Oscarian ball, so hopefully you get to go some other year.

      Poista
  2. Gorgeous!!!! I am always in awe of your creations :D

    VastaaPoista
  3. Votre robe est la plus belle et la plus extraordinaire que j'ai vu depuis beaucoup de temps! Elle est parfaite, magnifique, splendide... Je ne peux pas arrêter l'admirer!

    VastaaPoista
  4. You look as gorgeous as always. Unfortunately I can't go- I had so hoped to see you and your fabulous clothes for real. You will have to come to an 18th century event soon!

    VastaaPoista
    Vastaukset
    1. Thank you very much! I was afraid you couldn't come because I hadn't seen you write about it in your blog. It would have been so great to finally meet you. But flying there was so simple and I stayed in a nice hotel near Kristinehov, so I'm even more excited than ever to come to the 18th century events too.

      Poista
  5. just amazing...
    one question: how do you get these things clean again after e.g. dancing all night with it? I suppose, that regular laundry (washing machine) is not recommended? Since I put my ball gowns (see also my blog) all in the laudry machine... but they are not real silk and have no corsets... my sewing is not as authentic as yours...

    VastaaPoista
    Vastaukset
    1. Thank you!

      Trains stay surprisingly clean in an indoor event, but of course some soiling can't be avoided. I usually brush away what I can and that is usually enough. For trickier smudges I recommend to try gentle hand washing or taking the dress to cleaners.

      Poista
  6. So utterly beautiful. You always look so elegant. Lovely finishing work and details!

    VastaaPoista
  7. So perfect! I love the look of the tulle on the skirt, and also the design you put on the neckline!
    And, in an unrelated comment, I like your rabbit picture in the background. :)

    VastaaPoista
    Vastaukset
    1. Thank you!

      And the rabbit painting was painted for me by my friend and has followed me to every place I've lived in since I first moved to my own apartment. I've had a lot of bunnies and I like that she painted a bunny with an attitude instead of something fluffy and cuddly. :)

      Poista
  8. I love the dress and how it changes depending on the light. What lovely photographs of the dress in the snow. Oh, and yes, i love that rabbit painting, too. Yes, bunnies can be fierce little things and not fluffy at all! :)

    VastaaPoista
    Vastaukset
    1. Thank you!
      And yes, rabbits are often underestimated. :)

      Poista
  9. I love the dress too. Can you please give some details about how you made the Bertha (Berthe, Collar) please? And how it is attached, is it meant to be removeable? I can't find much information on line at all about this. Thank you.

    VastaaPoista
  10. I want to play dress-up in your closet. Your skills and taste are amazing.

    VastaaPoista