perjantai 1. maaliskuuta 2013

1660's shift

This project required a little guesswork. All the surviving shifts I've seen are from an earlier or later date and neither seem to fit the shifts seen in artwork of the era. I can only hope the garments in the paintings have true likeness for the shifts they wore and are not just something artistic designed for the portrait. 

Nell Gwyn by Simon Verelst c. 1680

Nell Gwyn, anonymous, date unknown

Nell Gwyn by Simon Verelst c. 1680

Hortense Mancini by Jacob Ferdinend Voet c.1675

But there was one that I liked the best. And, depending on source, could be dated to 1660's.

Portrait of Charlotte Fitzroy with her Indian page by Peter Ley, 1664-1679


I wanted to make the body with gores but I wanted to do something different that I had already made with my 18th century shifts. I chose one of those one piece gore smocks from 1620-1630 in Patterns of Fashion 4. 

Since the shift is going to be worn under a dress inspired by a painting by Gabriël Metsu, I tried to achieve a similar sleeve length and ruffle on the cuff that can be seen peeking under her gown sleeves.

It's made from linen and hand sewn with linen thread. All seams are flat felled and sleeves and neckline are gathered in to bands. The cuffs have eyelets to tie them closed with ribbons and they are trimmed with ruffles.



They seem to have these pearl bands around their arms in several of those portraits. I have no idea what that's about, but I tried it with mine too.





Construction:

The main pieces.


First I cut slits to the gores and inserted the sleeve gussets. Then I did the sleeve seams and the attached the sleeves to the gussets. Then I did the four long side seams. After hemming, the main body was done.



Then I gathered the neckline and made a neckband.


Lastly I finished the sleeves.


30 kommenttia:

  1. Well researched and exquisitely made... as usual. Your attention to detail is most admirable and to be congratulated.

    JP

    VastaaPoista
  2. A perfect construction, as ever !

    VastaaPoista
  3. Lovely! I still only have my shift made for my 17th century wardrobe...

    VastaaPoista
    Vastaukset
    1. Thank you!

      I'm sure the outfit will be worth the wait when you get around making it. Those huge pinned sleeves are so gorgeous. I would have loved to have same kind of shift sleeves but I was so charmed with the Metsu painting that I changed the plan in the end.

      Poista
    2. Are you on Facebook? We are a couple of friends who has started the first steps to something more organized 17th century, though we haven't come so far yet. Eventually we hope to have a party or two:

      http://www.facebook.com/?ref=tn_tnmn#!/groups/224390527605799/

      Poista
    3. Yes I am. (Although I don't log in very often.) Thank you for the tip! I joined the group.

      Poista
  4. You know what? I'm pretty sure your facial features will be soo perfect for this period so I can't wait to see how you look fully dressed up. That chemise really looks so roomy... I always try to make my 18th century chemises as close-fitting as possible so there's no extra fabric to add on to waist measurement. I love the poofy sleeves of this chemise, though.

    VastaaPoista
    Vastaukset
    1. Thanks. I can't wait to get the gown done either. It's a weird fashion, but I have a thing for all things weird. :)

      I saw Devil's Whore again around Christmas and I fell in love with Angelica's wedding dress. http://periodmoviecaps.blogspot.fi/2011/10/angelicas-wedding-dress.html That evoked my long lasting love for dresses in Ter Borch's and Metsu's paintings and I just had to have a Baroque dress.

      The bodice is shaped in a way that is not pulling in the waist much, so I think there's going to be room for a loose chemise like that. But yes, it feels a bit weird. All my other chemises are on the narrow side too but I wanted to stay true to the era, so huge it had to be. :)

      Poista
    2. You have read my mind! Because I was just about to point that gown out to you! It's so gorgeous! :D

      Poista
  5. Beautifully done, as always! May I ask how you keep your hands/wrists/fingers healthy, considering that you do so much handsewing?

    VastaaPoista
    Vastaukset
    1. Thank you!

      I have always worked with my hands and had no problems so far, so I think I have taken it for granted and haven't given it any thought. Sometimes I feel the strain in the neck and shoulder area, but I take care of it by exercising and stretching, but I have no idea how I should take care of fingers and wrists. Important thought.

      Poista
  6. Looks exquisite! I always admire your handywork and am amazed by the fact how much handsewing you do.
    I have one thought about the strings of beads on arms... I noticed that the neckline is always quite wide, perhaps beads were supposed to keep the neckline from falling too much off the shoulder to one side? Let us know if you find some information about that, it's an interesting detail.

    VastaaPoista
    Vastaukset
    1. Thank you! And I think you could be right. Without them it keeps constantly slipping down.

      Poista
  7. Hello,
    I have awarded you the Very Inspiring Blogger Award. You are not required to accept it, but I just wanted to let you know that your work inspires me.
    Thank you,
    Deborah
    http://genealogylady.net/2013/03/25/very-inspiring-blogger-award/

    VastaaPoista
    Vastaukset
    1. Thank you very much! I'm very bad at forwarding blog awards, but I really appreciate that you have nominated me. :)

      Poista
  8. Oops, make that two! I’ve *also* nominated you for the Very Inspiring Blogger award: http://asartorialstatement.blogspot.com/2013/03/my-first-blog-award.html :p

    VastaaPoista
  9. Wonderful as usual!


    BTW - I nominated you for a very inspiring blogger award! :)

    http://costumerscloset.blogspot.com/2013/04/very-inspiring-blogger-award.html

    VastaaPoista
  10. Please don't feel obligated to do this, but I nominated you for a Very Inspiring Blogger award!

    http://costumersguide.blogspot.com/2013/04/very-inspiring-blogger-award.html

    VastaaPoista
  11. You surely get a lot of these because you are fabulous, but I've also put you up for a blog award. I had a tough time doing my post on it though so don't feel like you have to! :)

    VastaaPoista
  12. Your work is always amazing! I felt I had to nominate you:
    http://learningtocostume.blogspot.com/2013/04/very-inspiring-blogger-award.html

    VastaaPoista
  13. Your work is incredible! I've nominated you for the Very Inspiring Blog Award: http://americanseamstress.blogspot.com/2013/04/blog-award-time.html

    VastaaPoista