lauantai 18. tammikuuta 2014

Late 1770's robe à la Polonaise à coqueluchon

Judging from the amount of hooded robes à la Polonaise you can see in portraits and fashion plates they were quite popular in their time. I think it's a cute style, kind of a crossover between a dress and an overgarment, so I wanted to give it a try. It's made of striped silk taffeta with linen and silk lining and trimmed with silk gauze. It's hand sewn with linen thread. It closes with hooks and eyes. I'm wearing it over a shiftstays, a false rump, two linen petticoats, silk stockingssilk shoes and accessories, all hand sewn by me.

Snow and -14℃ aren't the best conditions to photograph a dress, but today was the first day off I've had in months without snow or rain falling from the sky, so we took few quick photos before running back inside.



















Construction:

I was mainly inspired by these three drawings. 

Gallerie des Modes, 1778

Carmontelle, Madame la marquise du Dreneux

Vigée Le Brun, Standing Woman Holding a Sheet of Music, 1772

A lot of the basic construction I owe to the the research Kendra and Brooke have made over the past years. I drafter the pattern myself using my riding habit and late 18th century jacket patterns as a guide.

I sewed it together by first back stitching the two silk layers and one linen lining layer and then folding the seam allowance under from the other lining piece and whip stitching it over the seam.


Back has only one layer of silk and linen. Front has two separate layers and both are stitched to the side back seams and are joined together also on the neck edge and armhole. The outer front pieces are lined with silk to prevent the stripes of the inner bodice from showing through.


The joined neck edge on the finished dress.


I set the sleeves the same way I usually do. All four fabric layers together under arm and sleeve head sandwiched between shoulder strap an it's lining.


To loop up the skirt, the tapes running over side back seams continue unstitched from where the seam ends to be tied up on the inside.


Close-up


All the trim is roll hemmed and pleated in place.



48 kommenttia:

  1. Oh my goodness, you look like a portrait! Fantastic, fantastic job!

    thedeviantdressmaker.blogspot.com

    VastaaPoista
  2. That dress is absolutely amazing! One of my new favourites! Wonderful work!

    VastaaPoista
  3. Lovely! Your work always inspires me. :-)

    VastaaPoista
  4. Very lovely dress and photos. How long did it take you to sew it?

    VastaaPoista
    Vastaukset
    1. Thank you! It took about seven weeks working on weekends and occasional nights after work.

      Poista
  5. Honestly...I don't know where to start! You're plain amazing and crazy at the same time :)
    How many miles of trim did you roll-hemmed exactly?! But it was so totally worth it, the dress is utterly beautiful and suits you so wonderfully! Perfect photos!!!
    Now with all the snow - we hadn't a flake yet this 'winter' - how about a pair of cute over shoes??? Otherwise all the accessories are truly painting a peferct picture of the past! Always a delight to the eyes.
    Looking forward to all the spectacular gamernts being made from you this year!!!

    Sabine

    VastaaPoista
    Vastaukset
    1. Thank you so much! It took a lot of roll hemming, but fortunately it goes quickly when you get in to the rhythm. :)
      We only got snow two weekas ago. It's been a depressing winter with grey clouds and daily rain. I hope you get to enjoy some snowy scenery eventually too before spring.
      Over shoes is a great idea! I need to try to make a pair one day!
      This year is going to begin with directoire and regency gowns. I'm currently making a merveilleuse dress and also trying out one of the short stays in your excellent short stays studies for a riding habit. I hope I'm able to do it justice. You had such fantastic results that I wanted to gie it a try too. :)

      Poista
  6. Utterly gorgeous! How do you produce such perfection each time? I really admire your patience and skills! I love all the little details and the hood, and the colours are so elegant and really suit you. You must have been freezing though, taking all those photos. :)

    VastaaPoista
    Vastaukset
    1. Thank you very much! But judging from your perfect detailed work, I think you have as much or more patience and skills than I do! :)
      And yes, it was freezing. My fingers were numb after few short minutes :)

      Poista
  7. And again a masterpiece. I love the stripes and the hood! Cute, slightly mad yet very elegant at the same time, wonderful! I am very much looking forward to this year's creations! Kris

    VastaaPoista
    Vastaukset
    1. Thank you very much! Slightly mad is my favorite kind of compliment. :)

      Poista
  8. Oh no, now I want one too! It looks great, i think the hoody adds something almost "sporty" somehow...really cute :)

    VastaaPoista
    Vastaukset
    1. It's a fabulous style, isn't it? You should make one too! :)
      Thank you!

      Poista
  9. How beautiful! Everything you make is so amazing, each outfit seems more incredible than the last.

    VastaaPoista
  10. Your attention to details on your finished gown are wonderful. But my goodness, you must have been cold!
    Val

    VastaaPoista
    Vastaukset
    1. Thank you very much! It was agonizingly cold.

      Poista
  11. What a fabulous hood! And all that lovely gauze!

    VastaaPoista
  12. Most splendid!!! And you're wearing your fabulous shoes!! Yeah!! I love everything about our gown! You have done such a brilliant job on this!! And I am happy you posted...I have been waiting for more of your creations!

    Blessings!
    Gina

    VastaaPoista
  13. Wow wow... So amazing! I don't even know what to say but WOW!!!

    VastaaPoista
  14. Beautiful job! I think the pictures in the snow are just perfect!.
    -Emily

    Emily's Vintage Visions

    VastaaPoista
  15. Snow! Lucky you, it's soo photogenic and matches your look perfectly! And the hood is incredible, never seen hooded dresses before, so this dress-cape-2-in-1 is definitely a surprising connection for me!

    VastaaPoista
    Vastaukset
    1. Thank you very much! I love hoods. I'm planning on making more hooded 18th century garments this year. :)

      Poista
  16. LOVE!!!! Your new dress, your shoes, your accessories, your hair... You look wonderful in all of your 18th century clothing, and this one just is as lovely as the rest. So pretty!

    Best,
    Quinn

    VastaaPoista
  17. Your fit is always impeccable. This is lovely, and the trimmings make it excellent. Thanks also for showing the "guts" - photos like that are always so helpful in understanding the garment.

    VastaaPoista
  18. It's perfect! l love the bows and especially the hood! In that scenery, you look like a snow queen with the hood on :D

    VastaaPoista
    Vastaukset
    1. Thank you very much! I'm a big fan of hoods now. :)

      Poista
  19. Chic, elegant, divine. Thank you for sharing your creation!

    VastaaPoista
  20. Its such a beautiful dress...wish I could make something so preatty (and have somewhere to wear it.)

    VastaaPoista
  21. Hi! I just wanted to ask you where did you find this tall cane of yours? I've been trying to find one like this but i dont know where to look!...

    VastaaPoista
  22. This is too cute for words! And I love the unfinished photo with the striped socks :)

    VastaaPoista